You shouldn't have to open it. I glued the connector back to the plastic part with locktite, has hel
You shouldn't have to open it. I glued the connector back to the plastic part with locktite, has held for 1½ years.
FWill try that. Thanks
HYouTubeRotor - Sims
In this video I show you how to balance your rhino spring to work properly for the H145 and H160
FAwesome video! Can't wait to see you fly using the full setup.
HThanks for watching! Next are the anti torques. Still have to order a 2nd seat for the sim lol. Just bought a gentex heli helmet from my friend Phil in Germany.
FThis solved it for me. Cheers. 
CGreat video and such a beautiful cockpit!!!! Wow! So awesome!
HReally appreciate the video. A great explanation of something I haven't done much about when flying the AH64 in DCS.
AThere’s a few things to be careful of in that video tho: for starters, his power settings are for the large motors, I recommend most users shouldn’t mess with the default power settings unless you built the large motor kit.
Another thing - it shows calibration but never talks about force compensation which is also important. When forces increase, full deflection of the stick won’t trigger your max axis range
Another thing - it shows calibration but never talks about force compensation which is also important. When forces increase, full deflection of the stick won’t trigger your max axis range
HSo dont touch 30 / 7 for motor current / psu current that are the defaults then. And thanks for the clarification. I do like the "feeling" of the stick after having worked with the settings and static force. I found my 20 mm gooseneck and virpil grip to require way less balance spring than him.
AYup! The default power settings are all you should need and anything much higher will probably exceed the limits of your power supply or motor. I imagine it won’t damage anything, but probably prematurely shut down? Someone who’s more knowledgeable about that could probably weigh in
A(Assuming your rhino is one that Walmis built)
HLovingly built by the man, myth and legend himself 
HThanks for watching and the kind comments! It's one heck of cockpit!Alot of work but worth the effort!
RWhy is this? If you hold trim release you can then go full length axis.
HGlad it can help and thank you for watching!
ASo forget about helicopter specific stuff for the moment. If spring forces are at their strongest, there’s gonna be some stretch and flex in the system, which will mean when you physically move the stick to full deflection against that force it will register the axis digitally around maybe 90% instead of 100% like you calibrated
RYeah, in DCS I’ve noticed in the 58 and 64 and OH six that if I’ve trimmed to the center where it is when you start the game or I reset my trim. I can take my cyclic and move it all the way to the left and right and four and afterand in the VP for software the little circle will go to its full access link however in the game with Short about 25% now do the same maneuver while holding trim release and the VP for software and DCS match up one to one. It’s really weird.
HIf you set the PSU current of that of your power supply with some head room you shouldn't be experiencing any overheating and shutdown. The 30 amp can be set for the motor. It's safe to do. With heli, constant power really isn't an issue and you set your globals very high but if your effects are low you are fine. It can be a problem if you globals and effects are set all to 100%
RI can make a video to help tomorrow when I get off shift
AYou can work around this by either adjusting force compensation or by manually changing the calibration so it hits 100% earlier than full deflection
RHow do I do either of those?
ASure, I’m just saying our babby rhino power supplies are rated much lower than yours
AMax PSU Current should be around 6 or 7 I believe
A(Not at a computer atm)
AIt’s a bit more involved, not hard, just annoying to explain over text
RMakes sense can you put me in the direction of a resource? If one doesn’t exist, I can hop one in a few days after I get off work.
AI’m just about to take off :KEK: so later on I can probably write up a bit more
HI speak about the PSU current in the beginning. You set your PSU based on what you use. If you happen to be on 220v the amperage draw will be half.
RThanks Homie. I appreciate that. Be careful and enjoy wherever you’re going.
AJust returning home, was in Germany with family, but back home to California
HThis depends on what your are using and what voltage you are running. You have to look at the specs of the PSU and set accordingly so the controller will not request more than what the PSU is capable of delivering. The kits don't come with a PSU unless you buy a fullt built unit from Walmis. If you are building yourself, it's user preference on the PSU. 220v if you have it is much better. Cuts the amperage draw in half which is nice.
AThat’s precisely what I’m talking about. I’d reckon most people here who have rhinos have a power supply from walmis or bought one based on the prebuilt rhino, so those numbers aren’t going to be copy paste for most people. Thus my warning is all.
HNo worries at all. Definitely not copy and paste. Settings need to be checked. I'll post and pin a comment on the vid just in case. Have a safe trip back.
RInteresting. I'd never thought about a balance spring since I don't have an extention for my setup. But definitely looks handy
HDefinitely needed with an extension or any offset grips at least for Heli. Not sure if you would need it for airplanes.
RMotors going offline from time to time: device firmware v1.0.17b12
R
RTemps: 28-32°C, also happened under usage situations.
HLoose connection?
FRight. I'd definitely check the wiring to make sure the power cables are firmly connected to the board.
When the disconnect happens it would be good to see the voltages on the configurator in case maybe the problem is the power supply or a faulty e stop switch.
When the disconnect happens it would be good to see the voltages on the configurator in case maybe the problem is the power supply or a faulty e stop switch.
.could the use of an much stronger PSU with an output of 14.6 amps at 24V , but set in the software to 30Afor motors (57BLF03) and max PSU current 8.0A be the cause for my system to get Fault_Unstable and Fault_UNDERVOLTS codes?
.the 57BLF03 specs stated its rate amps is 15A . Do you guys believe is safe to increase the PSU current to 14A to prevents motors from stoping due undervolts?
.I had been leaving the power settings to rhino default setting since the beginning , but now im starting to get this faults codes...
RSo I should record that screen with OBS maybe. 
Thanks for the reply.
Thanks for the reply.
Wfyi - found in DCS.Log
Errors
Error attempt to index local 'MCP' (a nil value)
Line 302
Script C:\Users\WNGOVER\Saved Games\DCS\Scripts/TelemFFB.lua
If the above errors point to DCS internal files, please conduct a !repair.
Otherwise remove the respective unofficial mod.
Errors
Error attempt to index local 'MCP' (a nil value)
Line 302
Script C:\Users\WNGOVER\Saved Games\DCS\Scripts/TelemFFB.lua
If the above errors point to DCS internal files, please conduct a !repair.
Otherwise remove the respective unofficial mod.
JHello, are there any news on this topic?
HI have this issue as well because I use an outside connection USB controller and in my case I have to start two instances of it everytime and re-select my in/output. Is there a way you design the app so it's all in one where we map multiple instances of in/out? I know there may be a way in telemffb with master and child instance and I tried it but it didn't work. Number481 I think is looking into it.
MHaving some issues when trying to follow your guide.....basically, at -100, the stick will be held firmly fully forwards - I t will almost snap forwards once past the centre...I can move it back towards the centre, then it will become loose as it passes the centre point. At +100 setting, the stick wants to fall backwards, resistance increases the further forward I push it, but it does not snap back like it does when applying -100....If I set zero, the stick will fall backwards. Any percentage setting between will only affect the stick once it goes past centre, so I am no able to get it to stay where I place it with any setting.....why is this? I have everything unchecked as per the guide...here is my conf file
DumpF18.vpconf7.27KB
MMy settings are pretty much default, but I also get an annoying oscillation around the centre point if I turn up my gain pot anything more than about 20%, which sucks as I want some stronger force......whats the best way to dial this out please?
HHi Mark, first with no effects on etc perform the calibration procedure.
Next make sure effects are off click apply. Then on in the balance spring option make sure to unlink x and y and + and -. Click apply then work on each axis independently. Initially the stick will flop around depending on extension and weight. The goal is to get it to the point it isn't snapping back to center but instead stays where you put it. As for the oscillation that would be a question for walmis. Post screen shots of your setting and make a video if you can.
Next make sure effects are off click apply. Then on in the balance spring option make sure to unlink x and y and + and -. Click apply then work on each axis independently. Initially the stick will flop around depending on extension and weight. The goal is to get it to the point it isn't snapping back to center but instead stays where you put it. As for the oscillation that would be a question for walmis. Post screen shots of your setting and make a video if you can.