Got a reply from Virpil: ".... Considering current production capacity and your order's queue position, we estimate that your order will be fully allocated between end of January to early February" So it looks like I'll get it soon enough and there's probably no need to rush this
Iโve been reading a lot of reviews and seeing people experience the odd overheating issue and the loss of power while the motors cool themselves down. Is there currently a fix in the works for this or is it something that will just have to deal with?
It's not overheating per se, just thermal limiting since any motor working at max current will dissipate a lot of heat. Thermal limiting is very gradual. But if prolonged dogfights is your game you might consider building a super Rhino(with the big motors) or FFBeast.
Thank you Yuchen, thatโs great to know. I just want to make the right decision as Iโve never had a ffb stick before and just donโt want anything that takes away from the experience of it.
I'm still confused about how the DIY kit works and what I need to integrate it into my pedals and stick. On the connection diagram in the showcase channel there are two potentiometers marked as "optional". I can see that the motor driver boards are integrated in the back of the motors. I guess there's also some sort of encoder. But where does the position feedback come from? Other FFB builds use potis at the output shaft. If theese are not required and there's a gear between the motor and the gimbal then the encoder has to be a multi-turn absolute type which I doubt...
Most use cases for the DIY kit operate within a single revolution of the motor, so homing is not required if the motor starts with a "centered" calibration. While the motors support multi-turn configurations, they need to be centered at startup to establish the "central" revolution for proper operation.
The potentiometers shown in the diagram are multi-functional and can be used for tasks like adjusting spring gain or other settings.
Can the centering be automated? Verifying that the controls are free from end stop to end stop is part of the pre-startup checklist, anyway. So if I do that the controls should be ready? I think I need either the bigger motors or a gear. Timing belts would be cheapest like in the Rhino base...
Has anyone tried to use their stick as a force sensing stick? Is there a way to set it up like that in the configurator? I should use search before asking questions.
Walmis, so to simplify, the motor should turn only one revolution for axis sensingโฆโฆ.in my collective build using 57BLF motor I have a 11 tooth spur gear attachedโฆ.meshing with a larger spur gear that is attached to collective stickโฆโฆ.it takes about a revolution and a half to go from bottomed out on collective to max collective up travel โฆโฆdo I need then to design a larger diameter motor spur gear or smaller main collective spur gear to get it inside one revolution? Am I understanding this correctly? Ta
this will work, but make sure your collective down position is calibrated within 0 and 4096. then the up position can be 5000, 6000 whatever. just be sure its in its down position when powering on. (if your numbers go the other way, like higher numbers in the down position, calibrate down at around 3900 or so and then the up position can be well into the negatives.