BHelp, just building the MFG pedals Rhino conversion and I cannot get the motor to work, I hope its something simple, I have checked the wiring, tried a different PSU. The software shows power to the board. Any ideas ?
B
BIts a devilsd job securing to the rig so I really don't want to have to lift it all out lol
WProbably a would have been a good idea to test it before installing 
What's the LED blinking pattern on the motor?
What's the LED blinking pattern on the motor?
Wmaybe disabled the wrong axis?
BI will need to pull it all ou then I guess
BOKay my motor is a Y axis then not an X axis
BLooks like it was taht simple many thanks @walmis
BTeach me to follow the instructions to the letter 
W@Blackrat you can tick the Swap axis checkbox for it work on X axis and disable Y axis (as required by telemFFB)
B@walmis Thankyou will try that
BPerfect, not sure if it matters but keeps in line with others
BI do like to live life on the edge 
NWhat causes “under voltage error”?
WWhen the motor detects voltage less than 8V from the main power supply
REhm, did u just try my solution from above?
RAnd the undervoltage comes from pushing the emergency button. When it happens next, first what the log before pressing the button to verify.
RThen try my workaround and shut off MSFS Support in TelemFFB SystemSettings.
NWhat is root cause of that? bad power supply? I just opened it from the box.
HI had a similar issue and found out that the power supply, when motors are under heavy load and demand more current, sometimes can't handle the current spikes and lower the output.
I fixed this by adding a charge tank (basically a capacitor with low ESR) next to each motor.
I fixed this by adding a charge tank (basically a capacitor with low ESR) next to each motor.
HI guess you can have a similar workaround by placing a capacitor in parallel at the connector right before it attaches to the Rhino
WThis shouldn't happen with the stock Rhino. I'll release a new firmware update soon with more diagnostic output and stability improvements, should help debug such issues.
JOn latest firmware. Yesterday everything fine, today the configuation software picks up all button and hat presses, but windows and MSFS doesn't register any button presses. TM F/A-18 grip, first time i had any issues
WIf the configurator shows button presses, try loading the default Rhino configuration or checking the button mapping tab, maybe the button mapping is corrupted somehow.
JThanks That did the trick
HI need to know if there are a few things I need to get my rhino to work..is there software I need to get?
Hnvm I found the manual
TJust an update on this. I took both the Rhino VKB adapter and my VKB made stick extension apart, and directly soldered the two sets of wires together. Works perfectly now. It just means I have a combined stick extension + Rhino adapter, which works fine for me. Thanks for the suggestion 
GSanity check: I'm finding it super convenient when I hop in and out of my rig to just pop that red emergency stop so the stick tilts forward and out of the way (as opposed to having to step over it while upright).
Should I avoid pressing the emergency stop if not needed, or is this a perfectly safe habit to form that won't cause longevity problems?
Should I avoid pressing the emergency stop if not needed, or is this a perfectly safe habit to form that won't cause longevity problems?
AI think it’s “emergency stop when turning it on/off for the day/that gaming session”
AAlso I use the dial because sometimes DCS loses track of the device when the emergency button is used, and then starts losing track of what devices are plugged in when it’s turned back on
Xit's basically a switch for L1, functions exactly like flip switch, so i guess it's quite safe... until you get Neutral out
XTL;DR; it's safe as any light switch you have a home
Xthese switches (especially if you have multiple) acts as immersion factor tho, when i get into rig, i do control check as if it was real plane, then i turn on power supply and then Rhino, and do another control check as it was a real plane, kinda fun )
GGood to know, thanks!
And yeah I've definitely enjoyed a few beautiful moments when I had essentially bound every last button required to do a full F18 cold start, so I could go through the whole sequence without ever clicking something with a mouse.
But that does get old when you have to wait 8mins for INS alignment and you kinda just want to fly
And yeah I've definitely enjoyed a few beautiful moments when I had essentially bound every last button required to do a full F18 cold start, so I could go through the whole sequence without ever clicking something with a mouse.
But that does get old when you have to wait 8mins for INS alignment and you kinda just want to fly
GStored Heading is the way!
EHey ! I was wondering if some of you have a very little play on the roll axis (or pitch, depends on how the gimball is mounted i guess)
I can’t really describe it nor show it on camera, but let’s say for example. You roll left and suddenly go right, i feel a very little play.
My guess is that this is just the design of the gimball that creates that
I can’t really describe it nor show it on camera, but let’s say for example. You roll left and suddenly go right, i feel a very little play.
My guess is that this is just the design of the gimball that creates that
TI would tend to agree. One direction will be direct acting and the other direction transfers through the core joint. I think the core joint is where the play comes in. If not play, it is at least extra flex. I also assume this is why you can see different values for force comp on x and y axis in the default configuration.
RUnfort. the motor timeout/disconnect bug is back. Even with MSFS 2020/24 support disabled. 
Rand here at 4:16 compared with the TelemFFB log on the left
Rand at 4:12 also side by side logs
RMostly on low demand situations like rollout on runway or hovering. Only 1 time in this session under load.
RNice, but this requires soldering and opening the product. Not gonna happen for me. I hope for the software solution.
Hno need to open the product... I mean something like this:
HI remember I suggested this to @I-WVoss as well that had a similar issue...
NThe Big Red Button only disables the motors it does not "SWITCH OFF" the internal electronics. If you are not switching it off at the wall or disconnecting the power cable from the power brick then the internal electrics going to the circuit boards are still powered up! Hitting the Red Button to move the Grip out the way is fine to help you get in and out of your Pit but you should always switch the power to the power brick off as you'll get software issues and bugs showing up as the circuit boards are on all the time! Had this issue after the first week of having it.
Shutting it down completely to reset everything solved issues I was Having!
Shutting it down completely to reset everything solved issues I was Having!
GOh yeah whenever I stop my session I fully disconnect both the USB and power to the rig, since I then have to wheel it away. This is just for getting in and out more conveniently
NMy Current issue now is I have no trim effects for Stick or Rudders in DCS making it impossible to fly!
FI exchanged the grip mount to an aluminum one, just to find the play between the grip mount metal profile coming out of the Rhino increased. The plastic mount was tighter. I could tighten the screws more, but I fear I'll destroy the threads. So I am thinking about glueing the mount to the profile. Is there any significant risk that I am taking? I should still be able to disassemble the Rhino, if needed, or?