When the motor detects voltage less than 8V from the main power supply
When the motor detects voltage less than 8V from the main power supply
REhm, did u just try my solution from above?
RAnd the undervoltage comes from pushing the emergency button. When it happens next, first what the log before pressing the button to verify.
RThen try my workaround and shut off MSFS Support in TelemFFB SystemSettings.
NWhat is root cause of that? bad power supply? I just opened it from the box.
HI had a similar issue and found out that the power supply, when motors are under heavy load and demand more current, sometimes can't handle the current spikes and lower the output.
I fixed this by adding a charge tank (basically a capacitor with low ESR) next to each motor.
I fixed this by adding a charge tank (basically a capacitor with low ESR) next to each motor.
HI guess you can have a similar workaround by placing a capacitor in parallel at the connector right before it attaches to the Rhino
WThis shouldn't happen with the stock Rhino. I'll release a new firmware update soon with more diagnostic output and stability improvements, should help debug such issues.
JOn latest firmware. Yesterday everything fine, today the configuation software picks up all button and hat presses, but windows and MSFS doesn't register any button presses. TM F/A-18 grip, first time i had any issues
WIf the configurator shows button presses, try loading the default Rhino configuration or checking the button mapping tab, maybe the button mapping is corrupted somehow.
JThanks That did the trick
HI need to know if there are a few things I need to get my rhino to work..is there software I need to get?
Hnvm I found the manual
TJust an update on this. I took both the Rhino VKB adapter and my VKB made stick extension apart, and directly soldered the two sets of wires together. Works perfectly now. It just means I have a combined stick extension + Rhino adapter, which works fine for me. Thanks for the suggestion 
GSanity check: I'm finding it super convenient when I hop in and out of my rig to just pop that red emergency stop so the stick tilts forward and out of the way (as opposed to having to step over it while upright).
Should I avoid pressing the emergency stop if not needed, or is this a perfectly safe habit to form that won't cause longevity problems?
Should I avoid pressing the emergency stop if not needed, or is this a perfectly safe habit to form that won't cause longevity problems?
AI think it’s “emergency stop when turning it on/off for the day/that gaming session”
AAlso I use the dial because sometimes DCS loses track of the device when the emergency button is used, and then starts losing track of what devices are plugged in when it’s turned back on
Xit's basically a switch for L1, functions exactly like flip switch, so i guess it's quite safe... until you get Neutral out 
XTL;DR; it's safe as any light switch you have a home
Xthese switches (especially if you have multiple) acts as immersion factor tho, when i get into rig, i do control check as if it was real plane, then i turn on power supply and then Rhino, and do another control check as it was a real plane, kinda fun )
GGood to know, thanks!
And yeah I've definitely enjoyed a few beautiful moments when I had essentially bound every last button required to do a full F18 cold start, so I could go through the whole sequence without ever clicking something with a mouse.
But that does get old when you have to wait 8mins for INS alignment and you kinda just want to fly
And yeah I've definitely enjoyed a few beautiful moments when I had essentially bound every last button required to do a full F18 cold start, so I could go through the whole sequence without ever clicking something with a mouse.
But that does get old when you have to wait 8mins for INS alignment and you kinda just want to fly
GStored Heading is the way!
EHey ! I was wondering if some of you have a very little play on the roll axis (or pitch, depends on how the gimball is mounted i guess)
I can’t really describe it nor show it on camera, but let’s say for example. You roll left and suddenly go right, i feel a very little play.
My guess is that this is just the design of the gimball that creates that
I can’t really describe it nor show it on camera, but let’s say for example. You roll left and suddenly go right, i feel a very little play.
My guess is that this is just the design of the gimball that creates that
TI would tend to agree. One direction will be direct acting and the other direction transfers through the core joint. I think the core joint is where the play comes in. If not play, it is at least extra flex. I also assume this is why you can see different values for force comp on x and y axis in the default configuration.
RUnfort. the motor timeout/disconnect bug is back. Even with MSFS 2020/24 support disabled. 
Rand here at 4:16 compared with the TelemFFB log on the left
Rand at 4:12 also side by side logs
RMostly on low demand situations like rollout on runway or hovering. Only 1 time in this session under load.
RNice, but this requires soldering and opening the product. Not gonna happen for me. I hope for the software solution.
Hno need to open the product... I mean something like this:
HI remember I suggested this to @I-WVoss as well that had a similar issue...
NThe Big Red Button only disables the motors it does not "SWITCH OFF" the internal electronics. If you are not switching it off at the wall or disconnecting the power cable from the power brick then the internal electrics going to the circuit boards are still powered up! Hitting the Red Button to move the Grip out the way is fine to help you get in and out of your Pit but you should always switch the power to the power brick off as you'll get software issues and bugs showing up as the circuit boards are on all the time! Had this issue after the first week of having it.
Shutting it down completely to reset everything solved issues I was Having!
Shutting it down completely to reset everything solved issues I was Having!
GOh yeah whenever I stop my session I fully disconnect both the USB and power to the rig, since I then have to wheel it away. This is just for getting in and out more conveniently
NMy Current issue now is I have no trim effects for Stick or Rudders in DCS making it impossible to fly!
FI exchanged the grip mount to an aluminum one, just to find the play between the grip mount metal profile coming out of the Rhino increased. The plastic mount was tighter. I could tighten the screws more, but I fear I'll destroy the threads. So I am thinking about glueing the mount to the profile. Is there any significant risk that I am taking? I should still be able to disassemble the Rhino, if needed, or?
FI'd use something like plumber tape before glue.
Sbeen running almost 2 years here with only cutting the 24v power, usb always connected and pc remains powered up. no issues.
NMy issue was that for the first week I had it, I was just hitting the Big Red Button BRB from now on. and after a week FFB was just not working as it should. Realised the BRB was just cutting the power to the motors but leaving everything else fully powered. Unplugged for a minute and all went back to normal and have unplugged from power brick ever since. USB still connected to PC but I do shut it down at night. Been good ever since until recently and the F-5E in DCS has no trim effects anymore but all the other modules seem fine?
AI've managed to get my settings dialed in after a couple of test flights. 2 questions remain. How do I disconnect the standard spring effect from the spring dynamic effect? I would like to have no spring effect at all when standing still and as air speed increases have more and more spring like effect. Second question, how do I decrease the inertia effect time. Now it feels a bit sluggish. I would like to have the inertia kick immediately when stopping the stick from moving. Now there is a bit of a delay, when the stick is stopped until I feel the 'inertia kick/effect.
NI only have the FC F5, and while it has bindings for rudder trim, they don’t seem to do anything. IDK about the full fidelity versions.
The pedal trim feature in TelemFFB reacts to the physical movement of the control surface. If that doesn’t move with rudder trim, it won’t work.
The pedal trim feature in TelemFFB reacts to the physical movement of the control surface. If that doesn’t move with rudder trim, it won’t work.
NHI I can confirm that the F-5E trim both stick and Rudder used to work fully without issues, The Stick and Rudders would both move and react to trim inputs. But since ED updated DCS on the 24th of Dec I could not fly as they buggered something up for me! They seem to have fixed the issue I had with the latest update but now the F-5E cannot be trimmed out and is basically unflyable with the Rhino! All other modules that I have tried and I have most seem to be absolutely fine!
OHit the awacs up and start getting a soak before you taxi to help SA
NWell I don't know how I fixed it but ALL is well in F-5E Tiger II world!!
I reset the configurator to factory defaults and used the standard config file for the F-5E and the Trim is now working properly!
I reset the configurator to factory defaults and used the standard config file for the F-5E and the Trim is now working properly!
OIt was a good suggestion but having just tried it, it makes the game lose the whole stick. Going to give "autohotkey" a go
PHas anyone found a reliable way to get the cog covers to stick? Mine unfortunately keeps coming off. Tried a couple things so far but no luck
WHmm, did you try a foam double sided tape?
JThis is still a pain in the butt. Is there any help to get it back to remember it's last setting?
PBeen using a silicone one but I'll give foam a try
NI cut up some command strips. Never moved until I took them off.
LHey all, I got 1h40m into a DCS campaign mission yesterday when my Rhino suddenly disconnected in the middle of a Case III approach. The stick went limp and there were no inputs reaching the game. I pressed and reset the emergency stop and unplugged and reconnected the USB cable on the base and it reconnected, but there was no longer any FFB. I restarted TelemFFB and got the periodic effects back, but there were no spring forces. I managed to trap, but wondering if there's anything else I can do to recover from a disconnect and restore all forces in the future. I'm worried about this happening during a multiplayer squadron mission as those often run over 2 hours. Thanks!
TI have never had an issue but someone the other day said that they experienced “random FFB disconnects” similar to what you’re describing.
The issue and fix for this person was Vjoy or joystick gremlin virtual joystick? (One of those) was causing a dual input.
To fix the issue they just disabled “ FFB” check box in the virtual joystick or the Vjoy.
Maybe it was under the support channel so see if you can find it AND double check yourself (if your running any virtual joystick) that the “FFB” is unchecked.
That’s the only thing recently I’ve seen so maybe that’s a start for troubleshooting
The issue and fix for this person was Vjoy or joystick gremlin virtual joystick? (One of those) was causing a dual input.
To fix the issue they just disabled “ FFB” check box in the virtual joystick or the Vjoy.
Maybe it was under the support channel so see if you can find it AND double check yourself (if your running any virtual joystick) that the “FFB” is unchecked.
That’s the only thing recently I’ve seen so maybe that’s a start for troubleshooting
