Rat Rig Community [Unofficial]

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Rat Rig Community [Unofficial]

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Extruder clicking and massive under extrusion

Hello everyone! I am suffering a problem with my ratrig v3.1 500mm. UHF rápido 2.0 running included 0.6mm nozzle LDO orbiter 2.0...
240C 0.6

extrusion issue

Hey guys, I have the problem of weird extrusion in some areas, can’t even tell if it’s under or overextension....
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missing perimeters?

I tried switching from ss to prusa for the organic supports and the result was this mess. It's like it's not printing perimeters despite them being in the gcode and the slicer settings (2). Any ideas where my prusa config has gone wrong? Ss prints fine.
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Anyone know what the most likely culprit for this PLA symptom is?

Anyone have any idea what might cause this sort of issue on PLA? I run into it frequently, but ONLY when all of the following points are true: - the print has multiple parts, so the extruder spends a decent amount of time off of any given part (only one part from this print is pictured) - the affected part(s), like the picture above, have a relatively steep outward overhang, extending over the build plate...
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Seam causing issues

Having quality issues on my Ratrig which I don't have on my CR10 Two on the left are from CR10 and 3 on the right are from Ratrig. Printer settings are identical for Filament & Process (using Orca Slicer). The slicer is placing the seam identically in the same place between the two printers. Printing in different locations on the Bed gives identical results and so not a specific mechanical issue as far as I can tell)...
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kind of at a loss

Not really sure where I need to be looking for changes on this particular section of the print.. thought maybe bridging but now that I have bridging mostly under control and it's still doing it. Not really sure what to look at next for this.
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Prusament PA11 Settings

Hello all, so seeking some advice regarding setting for Prusament PA11. Seen some amazing results on here of super clean prints but I keep getting defects and blobbs of material. I have tried on Prusa slicer and now onto Orca so I can use all the calibration functions. And I still haven't been able to crack it. Of someone could shed some light on where I'm going wrong or share some settings that would be greatly appreciated 👌...
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Layer width shrinks/expands when cooling bridges on top of infill

Im printing PETG in an enclosure, at 80/235. Im printing without the fan on, but I have to turn it on for bridges (first layer on top of infill). When the fan kicks on, I think it cools the newly added wall layer, and creates a difference in how molten the next layer is or something. Is there a way to avoid this?
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Under extrusion problems at solid infill

Hello everyone. So i have a problem while tuning my own prusaslicer profile. Using Ratrig V-core 3.1 500, Phaetus rapido 0.6 volcano, Bondtech lgx-lite, and the filament is Polymaker Polylite PLA. Machine has been IS, PA, skew tuned, and PA is set to 0.03 (same as default rapido profile in RatOS) The current speed and extrusion width are shown in the image...
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is this underextruding?

I've run Elli's EM cubes and I felt liked I got it tuned well but then I do this big print and I'm questioning that fact. I feel like this is under extruded but since I don't have a ton of experience I was hoping to get a confirmation or two first.
Solution:
I've fixed all my under extrusion issues now. I'm seriously about to walk out the door to go on vacation for a week to the beach, but uping the current to the extruder driver from 0.35 -> 0.4 fixed everything. ``` [tmc2209 extruder] run_current: 0.4...
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Need some help with my print surface

Ratrig V3 400 Phaetus rapido hotend 0.6 nozzle Orca slicer I'm getting some error on the side of my print. I have re done presure advance. Before it was 0.050 and the new value is 0.048...
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Bad quality print

This is my first print on my new V-core 3.1 500³. The gyroid infill is really bad & caused the top layer to not have enough to stick to leaving holes in the top layer. The bottom & walls look fine with just a little retraction to be tuned in. I sliced in OrcaSlicer with 200mm/s inner, outer & infill with 100mm/s for top surface. 0.2 layer with 0.6mm for inner & outer wall & 0.4 everywhere else. I am using RatRig green ABS 265°C with 95% flow ratio. Any suggestions to fix this???...
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consistent Z marks

I was running some ghosting prints which turned out OK other than the Consistant Z marks. This is the second print in a row with the same marks, when I shine the light you can see each ridge is creating a shadow! I'm not sure if this is more a setting issue or actual z rod problems. Any help appreciated!...
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inconsistent overlap/bridge

Any idea why one of the bridges are perfect and the other is really bad? They are very similar in shape. ABS 240/110...
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What is making my corners look like this?

Recently calibrated PA for PETG to a value of 0.04015 and smooth time of 0.02s on a 0.6mm nozzle filament has been dried recently and they should be square corners...
Solution:
i used the tower v2, have since used ellis' tool and have a much smaller value, closer to what i would expect, going to mark as complete
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Any guesses on WHY this type of cooling issue occurs??

Hey all! So I feel like this is a question I should know the answer to, but I'm gonna be honest I'm still a little stumped and hoping someone here might be able to ELI5. Often times when printing multiple parts, especially if one part fans upward and outward from the build plate, I'll end up with a scenario similar to the attached picture - the part fanning up and out will have curling up edges, droopage, poor surface quality, etc. and just becomes an overall mess. This specific picture is with PLA, fwiw but I'm pretty sure it's happened on me with other filaments too. While I am pretty certain that it's a cooling issue at its core, what is stumping me a little is the WHY. Specifically:...
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Consistent Z banding pattern on ASA

I'm printing new parts to update my vcore 3.1 using polymaker Asa and the first one to finish had very consistent z-banding to the point it was a pattern. No other filament does this and I'm new to working with ASA so it's probably just a settings issue. Likely printed too fast, happy to hear opinions. Orcaslicer...
Solution:
Answer found! It was due to the inner walls printing first. Set Orcaslicer to outer/inner and it printed properly.
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nozzle hitting print

I kept hearing a dragging noise and I believe it's the nozzle dragging against cooled plastic. You can see it in the video when the print head moves forward and back and you can hear it as well. You can see the print literally getting pushed a bit as well. I switched filaments and I was trying to do an EM calibration with petg. This is the built in orca flow rate. Everything looks great until it starts to print internal solid infill on layer 4. The settings are pretty close to the default for petg but it appears that the infill doesn't lay down all the way and then the nozzle starts knocking off chunks of semi hardened plastic 🤷‍♂️. I've turned on zhop on when retracting but that doesn't seemed to help much....
Solution:
Because I had to set it to 10% min, 30% max for my PETG prints

Bendy corners on the enclosure magnet frames in ABS enclosed

I’m trying to print the magnet holder for the frame for the vcore enclosure. I have tried all z-offset and temperatures, but the corners will still bend slightly. It’s so small that I can’t really get a picture of it. Looking at the first layer from the bottom, it looks like the squish is fine. Is it supposed to look different? Bed temp 110/105, nozzle 250/245 Ignore the bridges please, didn’t have fan on...
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Backlash by Bondtech LGX-Lite

I'm making this post because maybe somebody will make the same mistake I did. I upgraded my LGX-Lite with some metal gears and ever since I did that the extruder couldn't seem to complete a first layer with small shapes anymore. After checking for obstructions, checking the extrusion and recalibrating the Pressure Advance I chose to disassemble the extruder due to noticing some backlash on the gears. Turns out that I lost one of the ballsprings of the LGX-Lite which push the selector part against the gears and hold the gears in place. Without both of the ballsprings the gear has soms radial movement when retracting and un-retracting (is this even a word?). So if you are experiencing any backlash on the gears, check those little bastards if they're still in place....