SYep! Sweet B8 
I was looking for where to find some resources to make triggers, and PCB to wire all the buttons too (maybe one like virpil to have an axis for brake)
I was looking for where to find some resources to make triggers, and PCB to wire all the buttons too (maybe one like virpil to have an axis for brake)
JThe PCB you can get from @walmis .Works like a charm.
SGuessing we click other on the order app and write joystick pcb?
TYep, that’s how I did it. “Shift Register PCB” might be a bit more accurate description. I just finished wiring mine last night to fit my current DIY gimbal but planning to make it work with 5pin mini DIN like the TM grips and be swap-able in the next version.
SNice!! Did you design the trigger on your grip yourself?
TYep, I used two micro switches to get a dual stage trigger effect. The spring tabs on the switches helped with the reset but I ended up having to help it out a bit with a pen spring.
WNice, is that design available ? Did you design from scratch?
JNope... I did nothing but building it. Check it out here
JUpdate 02/02/23 - Added F-5E Grip + Alternate HAT switches (assembly video to follow)
This is a functional 3D print for a PC Joystick Grip compatible with the Thrustmaster Warthog Base and Virpil Mongoose/WarBRD Base.
Highly accurate replica of the grip used in many "Century Series" aircraft and Helicopters from the F-4 Phantom to the F-5 Tiger...
This is a functional 3D print for a PC Joystick Grip compatible with the Thrustmaster Warthog Base and Virpil Mongoose/WarBRD Base.
Highly accurate replica of the grip used in many "Century Series" aircraft and Helicopters from the F-4 Phantom to the F-5 Tiger...
RWoah! That one has the fully independent Otto style trigger! Just that alone is worth the download! Those things are Crazy expensive and I’ve never found a 3-D print version before this!
Swow you werent kidding
RYea I happily pay the Otto tax on the buttons. But triggers and hats are bananas money.
DYouTubeRight Rudder - Left Stick
Download STL's here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5654238
The second one is designed to fit on a flange for B8 style grips
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5654238
The second one is designed to fit on a flange for B8 style grips
RNice. I can save the P1 for real stuff like the ones in my lemons car!
Bnooooo, lemons deserves the 3d printed stuff, lol.
Kare you using your modified gimbal?
MThe more common ones like in F-16 can be found for like $100-$150 https://peerlesselectronics.com/u2-025-switch
Peerless Electronics Inc.
U2-025, M8805/111-04 OTTO Controls U2-025 precision mil spec switch. 2 pole Black housing, red button. Two-Step. Actuating force of 2.25 lbs. to make the first pole. Additional force of 6.5 lbs. passing through a detent to actuate the second pole. 0.762" +/- 0.025" width. Rated 7 amps resistive @ 28VDC Electrical life 50,000 cycles RoH...
SWhat is the approximate wait time for the 86blf04 kits?
YOoh, this talk gives me ideas. Otto has 2 stage pushbuttons.
I have moved away from the stick trigger for guns and have been using buttons on the throttle. Like the Japanese did. I have been missing the 2 stage though...
I have moved away from the stick trigger for guns and have been using buttons on the throttle. Like the Japanese did. I have been missing the 2 stage though...
WIt's quick, could ship this week.
GIf build a flight stick using the motor kits do I need hall effect sensors for the two axis or do the motors also work as axis sensors?
Sthe motor encoders are the axis sensors
GThat's actually really neat
GMakes it a lot easier to build yourself
Gi bet
GYou need a separate controller for the buttons on the joystick though don't you?
WYeah, a shift register board. I have those in stock too 
MWalmis has managed to turn a rather complicated affair into astonishing simplicity with hardware centered on practical choices. Nothing short of amazing.. making gimbals are the easy/fun part.
AI did some experimenting and wrote sort of an introductionish thing to the manual
AI noticed that currently everything is under 1) Introduction
AI suggest moving all the major sections away from there and make them their own thing
AAlso if it's up to me I'd keep both the intro and the "getting started" -thing very simple and to the point, basically a short intro + spec sheet in the introduction and whatever you need to do to get the thing connected and powered up and the software running in the getting started part
DI setup endstops for F18c and it functions pretty well, tho I might setup some dampening at the ends also to reduce oscillation / bounce from endstops. Anyone have experience with setting them both up? Also whats the best way to calibrate with end stops
VI set my end stops at 50% and I get pretty bad oscillation. I always have to remember to hit the estop button when I leave the pit because it's possible for the stick, if it gets bumped slightly, to start an uncontrolled self destruct sequence
VTried messing with the dampening setting but couldn't tell if it was helping or if it was just placebo
VIt certainly did not reduce them to the point where I felt safe leaving the pit with it on!
VI thought it was weird that the oscillating occurred even with endstop power set to 0. I thought it was the endstop power pushing the stick back to center that was the cause of the feedback loop but I guess not
AIf nobody objects I will soonish mangle the manual into horrible shape and fill it with weird stuffs
Asilence is complicity
DI have endstop for X at 50% with 100% force and Y (+) at 50% with 100% force and Y (-) at 100% with 100% force
DI always turn on the RHINO when I am seated and ready to play and turn it off when I am finished
SDoes this mean you can’t have a gear reduction resulting in a greater than 360 degree rotation of the motor? Is there any way around this?
SDoing some quick math, this probabaly wont be an issue. A 10x gear reduction would still give me 36 degrees of play which is perfectly fine
AI'm not an expert but afaik doing several rotations is not a showstopper, you just need some way of telling which rotation you're on at any given time
Si believe you can go past 360 without issue, its just that you have to be in the center when you power it up. the encoder goes from 0 to 4096, but will happily read values like -1000 to 5000 if you go beyond. If you power it up with the stick at -1000, it will think its at 3096.
Bthe way non-direct drive wheels solve this is they do a "motion range" spin on power up to recenter itself. Doing this with a stick sounds like playing wackfuck every time you power it up
PDon't know if it's even possible & I'm sure if it is it'd be a lot of extra work, but what about a clutch system so the motors could do the start up calibration without moving the stick?
Bseems more simple to have it do the motion range thing, but at a slow pace
RAnother alternative is to do like a 3d Printer and have it home to a set of end stops. Presumably in a direction away from your crotch.
SIs their spec sheet somewhere for the "joystick" ?