I’m looking at a Rhino FFB Board Rev 1.2 for a friend of mine. Looks like he may have killed the 3v3 reg. Is there any documentation for this board that I can look at?
@walmis Hey m8, I'm getting a clunk again when moving along the x axis, the gear is tight, so are the grub screws. Any idea what could be causing this?
the small gear with the two grub screws? both of those are tight, should I look at pulling that gear off & see if the shaft has been dented by the grub screws slipping?
I'll have to wait till tomorrow to look any further at this, I can't find my alan key set, & the alan key I have here that got one grub screw out might not be the right size & I don't want to burn the grub screw's head
ok, so what should I do to prevent this from hapening again, obviously once I fix it I can check the grub screws before use, but what should I do to fix this? Take the gear off & turn the shaft then put it back on, maybe some lock-tite on the grub screws?
@.durham - Were you able to resolve this? Having more or less the same issue with my Alpha + 200cm extension. If the trigger flip lever is forward (button 1 should be activated), button 1 shows solid lit in configurator but one of the hat switch indicators is continuously flashing, if the lever is retracted (button 2 should be activated), Button 1 flashes continuously. I also seem to be getting a lot of crosstalk or something on the hat switches. Some hat presses seem to control a directional push on a different hat, or a button press in stead of a hat press.. all very strange.
All seems to work just fine without the extension. (note I've been using this extension with my CM2 and then CM3 bases for over a year with no issues.
That's very strange. I have tested my Alpha with a 2 meter cable, all works normally. Maybe Virpil has different hardware revisions inside the grip which is more sensitive to cross talk. One hardware mod to try would be to add a 100 or 330ohm resistor on the SPI data line in series. Otherwise I'd be happy to help diagnose this via remote desktop, maybe a firmware based fix would be possible.
@Number481 - I got button 1 to stable red after taking the extension apart and putting duct tape on the exposed wires at the top of the join of the two cables that make up the connection inside the extension. I could not find what button 1 actually did, so renamed it button 0 to stop it dominating the DCS controls setup and off I went. I did try my VPC F-14 (V.F.X.) grip and got lots of red buttons and some flickering, so just went back to the VPC Mongoose T-50CM2 that I use for the Apache. The issue was definitely the extension as the behaviour was different and better when just screwing the grip onto the Rhino mount and even when using the straight tubular extensions. I have another 200mm extension on order to see if that behaves any differently.
It seems to be something to do with how much you have to compress the cable inside the extension which is necessary for pulling out the male connector at the bottom so you can get your fingers in to plug it on, and then it smoothly goes back inside as you screw down the bottom of the extension - ie I also got much better behaviour with the extension in pieces and using the cable with no kinks, bends or other compression.
Yeah, I just took mine apart to see whats what.. uncoiling the cable from inside the extension doesn't seem to help my case. FYI, button 1 is (should be) always active if the flip trigger is forward, button 2 is always active if the flip trigger is pulled back (at least on the Alpha).
Is that one of the data lines on the extension connector? I don't have any resistors lying around but could probably have some by tomorrow. It's actually the Alpha Prime, but I think thats mostly just RGB and construction differences to the original Alpha.