when I move it right & it makes the clunk feeling, after that the physical stick is sitting to right
when I move it right & it makes the clunk feeling, after that the physical stick is sitting to right but the software says it's centered
WHey, if you can't make a clunk with your hand while holding the large gear it's probably still the small pulley that's slipping.
Pthe small gear with the two grub screws? both of those are tight, should I look at pulling that gear off & see if the shaft has been dented by the grub screws slipping?
WYeah, you can even try to reattach the small gear in a different orientation
Pok I'll try that, what size are those grub screws, just in case I want to replace them?
WThey're M4 3mm length DIN 916
WBefore you start doing stuff, can you record some data with that clunk happening?
PSorry I missed htis, hang on
Pone of the grub screws won't come out
Pnah I don't wanna run it, it's just going to slip more on the shaft & not being able to remove this grub screw is going to be painful
Pthe heads on those grub screws are rather shallow
Pwhat's the exact alan key size that you used for these?
PI'm going to have to try super gluing the alankey to the grub screw head so I can get it out
WIt's 2mm hex
Psamples.csv3.03MB
Pgot the log for you m8
PI'll have to wait till tomorrow to look any further at this, I can't find my alan key set, & the alan key I have here that got one grub screw out might not be the right size & I don't want to burn the grub screw's head
WYeah, from the plot def looks like slipping pulley
Pok, so what should I do to prevent this from hapening again, obviously once I fix it I can check the grub screws before use, but what should I do to fix this? Take the gear off & turn the shaft then put it back on, maybe some lock-tite on the grub screws?
PI'd have to re calibrate then yes?
WYeah.
It Probably would be best to replace the grub screws with new ones. I could mail you some, but if you're able to find some on your end would be faster
It Probably would be best to replace the grub screws with new ones. I could mail you some, but if you're able to find some on your end would be faster
Pyeah awesome m8 thanks for the offer, I'll check out local supply shouldn't be too hard, def going to smash it with lock-tite though!
FHey @walmis how do you put in the code the trim feature for harrier ? And how do I use the trim with msfs?
N@.durham - Were you able to resolve this? Having more or less the same issue with my Alpha + 200cm extension. If the trigger flip lever is forward (button 1 should be activated), button 1 shows solid lit in configurator but one of the hat switch indicators is continuously flashing, if the lever is retracted (button 2 should be activated), Button 1 flashes continuously. I also seem to be getting a lot of crosstalk or something on the hat switches. Some hat presses seem to control a directional push on a different hat, or a button press in stead of a hat press.. all very strange.
All seems to work just fine without the extension. (note I've been using this extension with my CM2 and then CM3 bases for over a year with no issues.
All seems to work just fine without the extension. (note I've been using this extension with my CM2 and then CM3 bases for over a year with no issues.
WThat's very strange. I have tested my Alpha with a 2 meter cable, all works normally. Maybe Virpil has different hardware revisions inside the grip which is more sensitive to cross talk.
One hardware mod to try would be to add a 100 or 330ohm resistor on the SPI data line in series.
Otherwise I'd be happy to help diagnose this via remote desktop, maybe a firmware based fix would be possible.
One hardware mod to try would be to add a 100 or 330ohm resistor on the SPI data line in series.
Otherwise I'd be happy to help diagnose this via remote desktop, maybe a firmware based fix would be possible.
WThe current wip development branch is a bit unfinished for general usage at the moment, still a lot to do for MSFS support.
T@Number481 - I got button 1 to stable red after taking the extension apart and putting duct tape on the exposed wires at the top of the join of the two cables that make up the connection inside the extension. I could not find what button 1 actually did, so renamed it button 0 to stop it dominating the DCS controls setup and off I went. I did try my VPC F-14 (V.F.X.) grip and got lots of red buttons and some flickering, so just went back to the VPC Mongoose T-50CM2 that I use for the Apache. The issue was definitely the extension as the behaviour was different and better when just screwing the grip onto the Rhino mount and even when using the straight tubular extensions. I have another 200mm extension on order to see if that behaves any differently.
TIt seems to be something to do with how much you have to compress the cable inside the extension which is necessary for pulling out the male connector at the bottom so you can get your fingers in to plug it on, and then it smoothly goes back inside as you screw down the bottom of the extension - ie I also got much better behaviour with the extension in pieces and using the cable with no kinks, bends or other compression.
NYeah, I just took mine apart to see whats what.. uncoiling the cable from inside the extension doesn't seem to help my case. FYI, button 1 is (should be) always active if the flip trigger is forward, button 2 is always active if the flip trigger is pulled back (at least on the Alpha).
NIs that one of the data lines on the extension connector? I don't have any resistors lying around but could probably have some by tomorrow. It's actually the Alpha Prime, but I think thats mostly just RGB and construction differences to the original Alpha.
WI'll send you some pinout diagrams tomorrow morning once I get back to work
FAnd for harrier trim?
THave you got the straight extensions?
TWith the one piece cable?
Nno, its the offset extension.
Ntook it apart, removed the shrink wrap.. reseated the connector joining the two halves of the cable.. issue persists.
TAnd that is even when the cable is straightened out?
TI have the offset extension, which is the one that gave me the issues - the cable in the picture above played nice.
NYeah I assume it has something to do with the way they’ve connected the two halves together causing crosstalk of some sort.
N
N@walmis would you suggest trying to directly solder the two halves together and remove the connectors?
TThat was my conclusion - and when you cram it all together the potential for crosstalk increases
NWell, I cut the connectors out and direct soldered the cable.. problem is (mostly) gone.. I do still see occasional flash of button 1 in configurator so I assume there's still some crosstalk going on. Well.. spoke too soon. shoved it all back inside the tube and the crosstalk is back :/
N
HMaybe using coax cables would work?
N@walmis after failing to fix the issue by removing the connectors and directly soldering the wires, but noticing that when it wasn't coiled inside the tube the issue was lessened or non existent, I cut about 12cm out of the cable and soldered it back up so that it wasn't so coiled up when pushed back into the extension tube. Seems to be working so far...
N
JSorry, where'd you get that switch hat on the top right??
Ndesigned and 3d printed it because I needed a china hat
JColor me impressed and jealous.
Nyou're welcome to the file