BMost of these are diy so it naturally varies
NThat case looks amazing
JThose covers are something else! I like to think if we needed it then they would have come on it, but still rad!
BIf you happen to own a printer I'd consider it given, but I absolutely see why its not a necessary default.
Could easily be another 5-6 hours printing and for making 500 finished units, that's an additional 2500 hours or so of printing.
Could easily be another 5-6 hours printing and for making 500 finished units, that's an additional 2500 hours or so of printing.
NAre they all printed? Looks like metal to me, but maybe not
MThe frame may be low polished metal. The covers definitely look either printed or molded plastic though. There's not enough shine for it to be anything but matte, and it doesn't look like matte paint
RThe gimbal and outter casing are mostly printed in PLA. There are some internal critical parts that are metal (bearing, axels, hubs, and etc), but the rest are printed, sanded, primed, and spray painted.
PHey ppl, just wondering anyone that's installed the throw limiter from VPforce how are you installing it? Does it just go under the current 'limiter' that has the lether boot on?
WYeah, you unscrew that and slide the limiter under it, then screw the leather holder frame back on.
JHello, I am trying to find the pre-order form.. to no avail.. I guess I am still struggling with the Discord channel
BAt the bottom of that post, there is a link to a google doc.
JCool thanks!
BMight be a different doc for kits, but it should be in under the faq channel.
RIs there anyway to tighten up the center of the rhino without needing to increase the spring effects? Currently my pot is 100%, the effects tab is 60%, using DCS FFB tele. It would be nice to have the ability to tighten up center movement of the cyclic.
WThe only way is to tune the spring mapping, something like:
AI did some testing with actual center detents and it was kind of halfway successful, but came with some adventures
ROk will try
RWhat did you finally decide worked for you?
A3+
Aand that was a very good and clear answer indeed, but actually caused by me flipping over a wireless keyboard not knowing that it was already on
Aanyway I wouldn't say that anything really worked for me very well
Aif you make that raised section on the curve really really tight you basically get detents, but there is a notable deadzone in the middle and there's a tendency for the stick to oscillate
Aif you totally screw things up and reverse the directions with rather high gains, you might end up with the w-f champion of the world
Aeven better if you're sitting at your desk and forget that apply actually apparently instantly applies the setting to the stick in your pit
Athe reason I tested detents was because some planes actually apparently have them and if I showed people it was possible, they would have to start using detents or not be true hardcore
AI guess the point in detents is that on some plane types you want really precise stick movements rather than smoothness across the movement area and detents help you isolate elevator and aileron axis (for example when you're in alt hold and don't want to mess with elevator while changing heading)
BThat drawing shows the plate thickness to be 4mm. My MT adapter plate for my Virpil CM3 stick base is 6mm. Is 4mm enough to firmly hold the Rhino in place? At about 11.5 lbs, I think it's a lot heavier than the CM3.
WYeah it's plenty, Rhino also has an 8mm MDF baseplate
C@walmis I fear I'm having the same issue here. For a little background I had a WW adapter that the pins got bent on that came with my VP Rhino delivery so I ordered a new one, however, despite ensuring good contact and proper pin seating I'm unable to detect any input from WW F16/EX Grip in Rhino config tool
My Setup:
Rhino -> Virpil Z-Extension -> WW Adapter -> F16EX Grip
What I have tried:
Rhino -> Thrustmaster WH Joystick Grip
Rhino -> Virpil Z-Extension -> Thrustmaster WH Joystick Grip
WW Orion 2 Base -> WW F16EX Grip
Rhino -> Virpil Z-Extension -> WW Adapter -> F16EX Grip
Rhino -> WW Adapter -> F16EX Grip
At this point I know the Z-Extension works because it worked with my Warthog Joystick, but nothing I plug into the WW adapter seems to work despite the grip working it's own WW Orion 2 Base
My Setup:
Rhino -> Virpil Z-Extension -> WW Adapter -> F16EX Grip
What I have tried:
Rhino -> Thrustmaster WH Joystick Grip Rhino -> Virpil Z-Extension -> Thrustmaster WH Joystick Grip WW Orion 2 Base -> WW F16EX Grip Rhino -> Virpil Z-Extension -> WW Adapter -> F16EX Grip Rhino -> WW Adapter -> F16EX GripAt this point I know the Z-Extension works because it worked with my Warthog Joystick, but nothing I plug into the WW adapter seems to work despite the grip working it's own WW Orion 2 Base
S@walmis i have this exact view and it just says the following when i set the grip type to debug... do you know what should i do?
Sit also appears to be "loose"
Sbut applying pressure doesn't make input appear
CSame...
SIf you could send a short video that would be great
PI had a similar issue, but when I started up DCS I saw the binds working. Ensure you have the proper grip type in VP Config tool, and test the changes in dcs. For some reason windows game control window did not see the buttons on the F-16EX
WLooks like Rhino is able to read the adapter, the other end didn't mate properly. I've found you might need to push the 6 pin WW connector harder into the adapter socket.
SI tried really hard but no dice⦠I have a WW base with me and it does work
SAnything else comes to mind? I tried to take it apart but wasnβt successful
WD'oh, I'll probably mail you a new one
SIf thereβs anything I can do so that you donβt have to mail me a new one Iβd like to try thatβ¦ but if not, Iβd appreciate a replacement 
WThere's a hack you could try, but that involves a soldering iron 
Let me know if you want to try.
Let me know if you want to try.CI'm willing to try if the alternative is mailing it back and waiting for another again
SSame - I do have a soldering iron (or two), would love to avoid waiting for another
SBut I could probably use some instructions
Wokay, I'll try to make a short vid
W
WThe idea is to push the pins in without creating solder bridges, only 3 pins labeled DATA GND and 3.3V are necessary, the others are NoConnect
WTo disassemble the plastic parts, mount it on the Rhino and then you can unscrew the 4 bolts holding it together
Cok I see! I will give this a shot in the morning. Thank you @walmis !