Is this window a prompt to unzip or have you already unzipped?
Is this window a prompt to unzip or have you already unzipped?
WYeah, that doesn't make sense, the exe should straight out run. Maybe it's trying to install an archive utility.
Dalready unzipped into downloads folder....also tried it into a seperate folder.....should I be unzipping into a program folder?
D.I thought I had grabbed the most upto date from your links... But I'll check
Djust checked...is v 1.0.14 from march 23
KWhat file are you clicking on that brings up this prompt?
DThe application file with the VP icon. VPforce_FFB_configurator
DI will tryt an older version and report back......
KRight click on that file and then choose properties. Take a screen shot of that page and post it please.
NKI think I know what is going on.
KI don't think you've actually extracted it yet. You are seeing inside the zip file.
KLook above in the menu above and see if "extract all" is an option.
DOK... that led me to whats going on...It wasnt the unzipping...all is there.....it needed to be unblocked.. a new one on me since I only use PC for DCS I hadn't noticed that was a thing... all working now
Kgood deal
PIs there a temp limit to avoid? Or will fans handle it? I am running high forces and testing g force, noticing y axis temps around 55c
PRelated, is there a place to share settings? Trying to find a real good F18 settings configure (spring/damper/inerta) etc
MHas anyone experienced weird effects with the AV8B? I'm experiencing very high stick forces that feel like a very offset trim, but doesn't move with trim inputs.
JI experienced this exact issue with the A10CII. Make sure you fire up the Rhino with the stick near the center. Fixed it.
MThanks! Will try that.
JYeah, when you turn it on just do what you can to keep it roughly in the center position. You'll hear the "happy beeps" and it should sit centered 
JI also ensured my calibration was correct, just to be sure.
Shey guys, does anyone know if i can turn the main mount where the rhino connects to the joystick to induce a 15 degree offset, I know with extensions they normally come with it but with myset up i can only run the short throw.
BI see a couple mentions of endstop improvements in the Configurator app release notes. Does this mean that I might not need to 3DP a limit stop plate? If it matters, in general I am not a "yank and bank" flyer and right now am only using MSFS, so no combat at all.
Pthe software endstops got a huge improvement a few updates ago & they act really good now, the software endstops are obviously great if you want to be able to change them for different aircraft, tho cause I've been flying dcs more than msfs I did get a physical endstop which is good for combat flying.
P@walmis The new adapter arrived, installed, worked first time zero issues mate, thank you so much, appreciated
BFirst day user question (btw the Rhino is AWESOME -- getting a hand-built gizmo like this, with its quality of build, highly functional Configurator app, web-based firmware updates... wow, such a great value):
When I'm not flying, should I Push The Big Red Button or just turn down the spring gain? Is there any point in doing either, in terms of prolonging the life of the Rhino, its motors, and such? (BTW when I push the button the Configurator app stops seeing the axis inputs, even though Windows can still see them, and I have to restart the app)
When I'm not flying, should I Push The Big Red Button or just turn down the spring gain? Is there any point in doing either, in terms of prolonging the life of the Rhino, its motors, and such? (BTW when I push the button the Configurator app stops seeing the axis inputs, even though Windows can still see them, and I have to restart the app)
JI don't know if it's the right thing to do, but I hit teh red button.
DI hit the red button when not in use
RSame
Athe axis inputs go away with the big red button, because it shuts off all electric power to the motors and the axis sensors are an integral part of the motors
TDid you end up releasing this feature yet?
BI just found out the hard way that the button/hat mapping for the Thrustmaster Warthog grip mounted on the Rhino is different than that shown in the TMW manual (and which is what both the TM and Virpil bases report). I'm asssuming this is intentional for some reason, but I have to say it's not optimal
BOK today is Mess Around With DCS Day. I am currently flying the UH-1, and I'm not sure how I should have things set up in both Configurator and DCS. Using TelemFFB I'm getting some wonderful effects (e.g. ETL vibrations, which I can feel in my seat!), but the force trim stuff doesn't seem to do anything. I've turned on everything I know to turn on in DCS...
KYou can easily map any button to any button in the VPForce configurator. Most of us who use the TMWH have the buttons as they are reported to the VPForce board mapped to the buttons that the original design mapped them to. It takes about 5 minutes to remap.
K
BOh golly I wish I'd known that. I wondered what the function was for! Doh!
FRemember to flick the force trim ingame switch from the cockpit. It works for UH-1 and makes a huge difference.
SUsually when this happens people have selected sticky option on for spring effect in VPForce configurator. Check that it is off. That overrides the spring force commands from DCS. Another usual suspect is to select wrong trimmer mode in DCS for UH-1. Select “default” trimmer mode (not the one which mentions FFB). If it wasn’t one of these it would be a good idea to post screenshots of VPForce configurator’s settings and effects tabs for troubleshooting.
BSuggestions on which one to order plz 
SNah it's not out yet
JWhat are you powering? I just ordered something like the first one and it’s powering the stick AND pedals. So, the second if you’re just powering one.
B@jehlybean - 02 Nos of 57BLF03, using it for ROLL and PITCH, for a DIY yoke
JWell, I'm just reading the #
faq and doing some very light googling. The motors you ordered appear to be the same ones that came in the base (per the notes in the #faq). The stock power brick shipped with the bases is 180W. I've personally asked a similar question in here when I ordered stuff for my pedals (I want a single power supply, not two) and I bought a 350W. For you, I humbly believe a 240W would be fine.
faq and doing some very light googling. The motors you ordered appear to be the same ones that came in the base (per the notes in the #faq). The stock power brick shipped with the bases is 180W. I've personally asked a similar question in here when I ordered stuff for my pedals (I want a single power supply, not two) and I bought a 350W. For you, I humbly believe a 240W would be fine.B@jehlybean thanks , shall start the search for the PSU.
JI got mine from amazon for "like new" for about 15% off.
JNot terribly expensive. I personally believe the "laptop power bricks" are a bit overpriced.
BYep I will also stick to the SMPS type PSU’s
B@jehlybean what pedals are you using ?
JVirpil. I haven’t done it yet, but I’m intending to turn them into FFB.
JLove them and I think this will only make it that much better.