Is that along the right side rail and thus at an offset?
Is that along the right side rail and thus at an offset?
HThough I guess it looks like the spacing on those fasteners means you can put it on any of the 8020 tubes in the assembly
Bdoes this help? (BTW I just noticed that the profile that the bottom plate is mounted to is drooping. Not sure why, but I'll be trying to correct that.)
HThat makes more sense
BHere's another angle
HI currently have mine mounted to a large sheet of thick, quality plywood, but it's a bit cumbersome to move around, so I was looking into getting a dedicated seat setup for it and wondering if mounting it to the frame was worth the hassle
HHow much flex is there with high stick forces?
Bone unanticipated benefit of having mine mounted the way it is, is that the vibrations are transmitted through the profile frame and thus in the seat. It's pretty cool. I have an NLR HF8 haptic seat pad but decided it was redundant.
I don't fly combat much, and so I don't yank and bank nearly as much as some people. In fact, I've never heard the Rhino's fans come on. But then, I mostly fly helicopters.
I don't fly combat much, and so I don't yank and bank nearly as much as some people. In fact, I've never heard the Rhino's fans come on. But then, I mostly fly helicopters.
HI'm also running a 20cm extension, so it looks like floor mounting might be my only option to keep the relative height correct...
HI do like the idea of having the transducer push through the stick since it's mounted to the frame though
BHave you considered running it without the extension? I have two 100mm ones but they're in the closet. Almost purely by accident, the Rhino went on my setup perfectly without having to mess with anything...
HI'd actually bought a small transducer just for the rhino itself, but that would be an easier solution
HI've flown without them, and the extra throw is really useful for aircraft sensitive to control inputs
HI'd honestly really like an even longer extension, but I'd need more powerful motors and a riser for the seat to go much higher 
HLooking at the setup, I think it may be possible to mount this thing to the underside of the frame below the front of the seat
Byeahbut I think the Rhino has a lot more throw than regular joystick bases. I actually have mine limited via the Rhino config tool's Endstops setting (to 40%).
HIt's definitely got a lot of throw
H(And one complaint I have is the absolute edges of that throw aren't a perfect square/rectangle, they've got some deadspots around the perimeter that really need to be limited in the software)
HBut I definitely want something more similar to my experience flying a few aircraft/gliders where you've got a lot of range of motion to enable fine movements of control surfaces with gross movements of the stick. Really makes formation flying, etc. much easier to do when you can make minor corrections that are actually minor
HLike, my current setup has a throw that's getting close to a UH-60's cyclic range of motion
HBut it still needs another shorter extension to really get there
BYou've flown a UH-60?
HNever flown one, but I've spent a lot of time in the cockpit/flying on them/working the flight controls
HIn a previous life I did maintenance on them, now I just do flight test on a variety of different aircraft
HThis is sort of what I was thinking might be feasible. Blue being a purpose machined plate mounted to the underside of that frame rail under the seat
HMight need to make it an L bracket though, since two bolts might not be sufficient to hold the plate in place without it bending
Fthat entirely depends on the thickness of the plate. I assume 4 to 6mm to be plenty strong steel, alu might need a little more, havent calculated that correctness though
BI was concerned about the plate thickness, but Walmis said it was plenty and that turns out to be true.
I didn't realize this until I took the first pic above that the profile that the Rhino plate attaches to is sagging (it's not the plate). I just tried to tighten everything up but it's still doing it. I'm contemplating putting something under it that sits on the floor to support it (not that it matters, other than visually and to my OCD's insistence on orthogonality).
But I think you need a short piece of profile that mounts to the front of the bottom-most profile in the picture (you marked the latter red) and then the Rhino plate would attach to that. IOW, what I did but centered on the frame rather than sidestick-style. Maybe that's what you are intending but if not, I would not mount the plate directly to the top of the profile. It might be fine, but I do think the plate needs some support for at least part of its front-to-back length, as I have done. Either that, or put something under it for support that goes to the floor.
I didn't realize this until I took the first pic above that the profile that the Rhino plate attaches to is sagging (it's not the plate). I just tried to tighten everything up but it's still doing it. I'm contemplating putting something under it that sits on the floor to support it (not that it matters, other than visually and to my OCD's insistence on orthogonality).
But I think you need a short piece of profile that mounts to the front of the bottom-most profile in the picture (you marked the latter red) and then the Rhino plate would attach to that. IOW, what I did but centered on the frame rather than sidestick-style. Maybe that's what you are intending but if not, I would not mount the plate directly to the top of the profile. It might be fine, but I do think the plate needs some support for at least part of its front-to-back length, as I have done. Either that, or put something under it for support that goes to the floor.
FHello I checked my rhino and the y axis band is a bit looser than the x axis, is that normal ?
SGuys do many of you use the Throw Limiter Adapter? If so, at what angle and do we really need it?
Jits more for how you use it in your space, for some cockpit use you need it so it isnt banging into things
Jespecially if on an extension
JI personally got 50% and 25% limiters for mine, so limits half the throw, or only 25% of the throw. I kept mine consistent for both axis. The 50% I plan to use with a 200mm extension, the 25% is future proofing should I ever use it differently such as with a 100mm extension
You can of course use the software limiter, but the physical one protects you, your hardware, and the rhino when used in addition to software limiter
You can of course use the software limiter, but the physical one protects you, your hardware, and the rhino when used in addition to software limiter
C@walmis I plan on designing and building my own ffb rudder pedals with toe brakes in (hopefully) the not too distant future. What do you suggest in order to get the toe brakes as two seperate axes? I was planning on using rotary incremental encoders. Would the shift register be able to be used in this manner?
M15 degrees fore and aft is ok to not collide with monstertech desk mount without any extension. It's also the limit for a Virpil base. The stock 22 degrees of the Rhino is too much for me.
5hi, can anybody help me with the trim setup in fs2020? the stick doesn't move when i trim on the assigend buttons, only ingame. trim buttons are also assigned in spad.next. here are my settings, thanks
5also enabled in the config.ini
Si havent set it up myself yet, but i think you have to click 'override trim' and then remove any ingame trim settings you have for the 4-way beep trim buttons. But your button [2] should release the springs and relatch when you let go as your settings are now.
Nthe force trim in TelemFFB only applies to the "mag brake" release/new-center aspect of force trim. It does not support the trim-hat. As smitty said, if you want the stick to move with the trim-hat, you'll need to enable override trim.
WHi, I've added a manual entry about re-tightening the belts:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1YL5DLkiTxlaNx_zKHEYSs25PjmGtQ6_WZDk58_SGt8Y/edit#heading=h.z337ya
The belts eventually need tightening, that's normal.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1YL5DLkiTxlaNx_zKHEYSs25PjmGtQ6_WZDk58_SGt8Y/edit#heading=h.z337ya
The belts eventually need tightening, that's normal.
Google Docs
VPforce RHINO FFB User Manual Version 0.1 (WIP) 03/08/2023 Table of Contents 1. Welcome 1 2. Getting Started 3 2.1. Technical Specifications 4 2.2. Physical Setup 5 2.2.1. The VKB Adapter 6 2.2.2. The WinWing Adapter 6 2.2.3 The RHINO Throw Limiter Adapters 7 2.3. Initial Connection and Up...
5i think i also have tried it with "override trim", but not yet without removed trim settings ingame, will test tomorrow, thanks
FThere are others here that have made those, you probably want to ask them. (Ppl that have added toe brakes to the vkb mk 4 rudder might be able to help as well)
WThe easiest way - The pot inputs can be used for toe brakes with a pot or an analog signal.
Hard way - wiring an arduino spi slave to send digitized data via the 5 pin grip connector.
Hard way - wiring an arduino spi slave to send digitized data via the 5 pin grip connector.
FThanks @walmis
SI tried running Telem FFB via a bat-file, or via the MSFS exe.xml, but I just get an error. When I run it by clicking it, it works. What am I doing wrong?
Nthe app is fairly sensitive to pathing. If you want to start it from a batch script, you need to "cd" into its directory.. for example.. my batch file that launches 3 instances...
S@Number481 Ah, thanks for replying! I tried cd to relevant directory, still didn't work. I will look into it tomorrow!
HWhy does the belt need to be moved off prior to moving the motor?
WTo relieve the existing tension, since you wouldn't be able to move the motor enough to tighten the belt properly.
MGot mine yesterday and I am currently remapping all the buttons. Any idea if there's any way to use VIRPIL mapping software to keep mode switched and advanced button programming?
Nvirpil software talks to the CM base, not the grip.. so.... no base=no software