Pok thanks that got it! Now I just need to try get the calibration/axis scaling done right 
. Thanks so much for your help Walmis it's very much appreciated m8
. Thanks so much for your help Walmis it's very much appreciated m8Poh also are you considering making new vkb adapters for the new attachment they have? sick of how mine always end up loose, I want to change the parts over soon
Pomg why does it feel like I'm doing what you described but I'm just not getting the desired outcome 
Phey m8 I'm sorry to keep bothering you, I calibrated as normal then I had to lower not increase the Y max value to move the stick forward to around the center, then I put axis scaling at 65% forward & leave the rear Y @100%. When it comes to the X axis the physical limiter is at 50% do I need to adjust the X max value or just use the axis scaling to limit the X +/- axis?
Ptesting this seems to be getting my heat up to 50Β°c & the fans going, I've never really had this before
Pseems like pulling back on Y axis is getting the temp up, I had these same setting previously with the software endstops & I never really had the fans kick in during use, maybe it's just cause I'm testing it & not using it 'normally'. I'll see how it is in game, if I make it
Pcontinued 'testing' with the Y axis looks like the last ~3% or so of the axis is not registered I mean the last 'little bit' I pull back on the stick isn't registering on the axis as it's already registering full deflection
Pgetting the slightest vibration if I go from holding X full deflection for a moment to the other side of the axis. I'm going to post pics of my settings (this is meant to be for a F-18c) can Walmis or anyone point out what settings might be giving me trouble. Also I think I got the calibration & axis scaling done right now though not 100% sure, the blue ball goes halfway across when on full deflection on both axis
P
WRecommend setting this, to compensate axis flex under force.
As for the axis scaling. Once you do the axis calibration you need to manually tweak the Y max, so that the stick is centered and not leaning back when neutral. This is because of asymmetric throw. Once you have that setup, enable axis scaling. I imagine it should be something like (in the pic).
As for the axis scaling. Once you do the axis calibration you need to manually tweak the Y max, so that the stick is centered and not leaning back when neutral. This is because of asymmetric throw. Once you have that setup, enable axis scaling. I imagine it should be something like (in the pic).
Pyep after I did the calibration I needed to reduce the Y Max number to move the stick forward to where the center would be my limiter is Y+ 35% Y-60% X+/-50%
Pso this would be right for my axis scaling? it seems to be good except the x axis not quite registering full deflection & still getting the bit at the end of Y axis that isn't registering, I have checked the grub screws too
P@walmis sorry again m8 but I can't get this Y axis to register the last bit of movement rear, in the video when I have the blue ball all the way down you see the red arrow moving again, that is me pulling the last extent of the axis to full deflection, I have added the 190 & 100 Force comp & my settings are in the screen shots above, m8 sorry to bug you but I can't figure this out myself
WNote the raw values, and adjust your calibration accordingly:
Pok cheers, doing so now
WFrom the video it looks like it reaches 3000, but your CAL is 2700
Psorry so I understand, when do I take the numbers from the raw data? do I pull stick to max deflection & take that number to the Y Max?
PWhat if I remove the physical limiter, calibrate, install the limiter, change axis scaling to 50% +/- X axis & 35% + Y & 60% -Y????
WIt might be simpler that way
WOr you can check the numbers from another saved profile before the limiter
Pyep just thought of that, just loaded an old one 
POk that did it, just put limiter on then adjust axis scaling
MHi, anyone here using a real simulator grip with the Rhino? I have some questions....
MI am using the grip as a standalone grip. I dont really need all the bells and whistles full functionality via the RS software and want to use it on the Rhino FFB base. I simply need the grip to function as a normal HID device via the rhino base.Β
On first try it seemed there was some issues with button numbers being double assigned and some not being picked up.Β
Whats the suggested best way to proceed setting it up given the useage scenario described above? I want to try and avoid all the Real Simulator bluetooth issues.....
On first try it seemed there was some issues with button numbers being double assigned and some not being picked up.Β
Whats the suggested best way to proceed setting it up given the useage scenario described above? I want to try and avoid all the Real Simulator bluetooth issues.....
MI have selected teh Real simulator 64 button option in the configurator
MIts the F18 grip incidentally, not the F16
οΏ½
MWalmis is troubleshooting this. Still not working right in the most recent firmware. I use Bluetooth for the grip in the meantime
P@walmis Hey m8, I've just shortened the ww extension cable & the connection to the female end of the adapter is still just too finicky, the slightest touch will stop the connection. I'm not sure what else I can do apart from hot glue but I doubt even that will fix the issue. Any help you can give me would be great
WProbably the extension's male pins are slightly too short.
If you're not afraid of a bit of soldering you could push the adapter female pins in the adapter. I have a video on how to do it:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/um8ZC7NgLJRGkY5U7
Other way would be to modify/replace the male connector.
If you're not afraid of a bit of soldering you could push the adapter female pins in the adapter. I have a video on how to do it:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/um8ZC7NgLJRGkY5U7
Other way would be to modify/replace the male connector.
Pdo you mean the WW extension or the VPforce adapter?
PI've already shortened the ww extension cable & put it back together twice I'm really not keen to pull that thing apart again
Psorry just read that a bit better
Pguessing I just pull all the screws out of the adapter & pull it apart??
PDo I do this on both sides ie. all six pins for female side?
WOnly the three labeled ones
Poh, well I did all of them does that matter?
Wnope, you'll be fine, those other pins are not connected to anything 
Pstill no good!!!
Pdebug shows all FF's now, is that bad?
WMake sure you didn't short circuit 3.3V and GND pins on the female end (most likely)
Pso the adapter is toast now?
Wno, it'll work fine after you unshort those pins
POMFG !!!!! Got it! done, finally!
Pthanks heaps m8
MSorry to necro this discussion but is there any schematics or anything to help me get to the m/b? I can do soldering and all that, I just don't want to mess things up mechanically...
WYou'd need to undo the torx screws holding the rear plate (the one with the fan)
Moh, OK. rear plate doesn't sound too bad. Any advice on pot values?
W1-10k will work fine
M