anyone have an .STL for a compact z-extension? ie. much smaller both horizontally and vertically tha
anyone have an .STL for a compact z-extension? ie. much smaller both horizontally and vertically than vpc's z extension
Sa stick extensnion?
Nyeah
Nlike this
TThe best way is to contact them and see if they will work with you on this project.
Gonna be awesome I can tell
Gonna be awesome I can tell
Amy VKB setup is made of almost exclusively 2by4 and plywood, I just need to replace my dining chair for a garden furniture and itll be full ghetto
AI'd recommend getting some 2by4 and long screws to mount it on the chair bracket, or a pedestal with piece of ply and then your heels/pedals will stabilize it
DHi! I'm new to FFB. I'm wondering if the deceleration - stick forward effect is a realistic one or is that art added to FFB? i'm just confused why the stabilators would change to nose down due to breaking. or is it the inertia of the stick pulling it forward? in that case isn't it a little strong of an effect?
Dunfortunately I don't have RL experience
WIt's not meant to be realistic, more of an 'art' added for immersion like various vibrations. Some may like it some may don't - it's always possible to turn it off. 
RHey guys - does anyone have experience with the VKB Rev C adapter (mk4)? I have a Rev B with the pins and the contact patch and the disconnects are driving me insane. Was wondering if the Rev C works better or not? Seems to be a minijack configuration, which should be far superior, by the looks of it?
DI understand, thanks! Is it something to turn off in TelemFFB? Which setting is it? Will it affect in-flight as well or only ground handling?
NInterestingly enough, its called Deceleration Force 
. Only activates while on the ground
. Only activates while on the ground
DThanks I’ll check it out in the evening
I’ll check it out in the evening
Ndon't have my hands on the vpf adapter yet, but rev.c is a huge improvement over b
Nstill requires a tight grip fastener for proper install, and SCG is still tricky due to the plastic adapter, but MCG is much better
Nno more need to apply so much downward force when installing
RAre you supposed to press down hard while installing with Rev B? Isn't there a risk of bending the pins?
RThanks for giving me hope! I really want to switch to Rev C, but I'm euro-based and they don't sell them in Europe yet =/
Not going to get a whole new grip just to get the new connector...
Not going to get a whole new grip just to get the new connector...
Nyea there is risk, not supposed to be too much force, but it's always a balance and becomes a ever-worsening vicious cycle once deeper gouges manifest
Nhopefully will be able to compare vpf adapter vs GF base rev.c later this week
RYeah... gotcha.
I did what someone here proposed back when I got my unit, months ago, and applied some sodder to the contact patches (because it was driving me absolutely mad). It helped... then, it didn't... the screw kept getting loose under vibration. I finally invested in some loctite, which helped for a few weeks... now, it's back...
I did what someone here proposed back when I got my unit, months ago, and applied some sodder to the contact patches (because it was driving me absolutely mad). It helped... then, it didn't... the screw kept getting loose under vibration. I finally invested in some loctite, which helped for a few weeks... now, it's back...
Nunfortunate to hear that
NI never had to replace my rev.b pads but if they told me to add solder I think I wouldve just asked for a replacement instead, that doesn't look like a viable long term fix
NI retrofitted my GF3 with rev.c, hate the extra 20mm extension but the connector difference is night and day
RWell, as I understood it, it was a matter of the pins not making good contact with the patch. Made sense that elevating the patch by means of making a few small "sodder hills" would eliminate distance as a possible culprit.
And, again, for a while it worked. It was solid in the beginning. For some reason, it became more and more unstable, though, and now it's disconnecting several times every flight and I need to twist the grip some to get the connection back.
And, again, for a while it worked. It was solid in the beginning. For some reason, it became more and more unstable, though, and now it's disconnecting several times every flight and I need to twist the grip some to get the connection back.
RThat sounds great! I take it it's just stable connection now?
Naffirmative, no problems with MCGU
Non the other hand, I didn't really have issues either with MCGU on rev.b, only SCG
Nbeen using MCGU with a quick release clamp for grip fastener, hope to keep do the same on vpforce
ROh? What does that look like? Has it been good? I've only been using the default interface... with the aforementioned results :D
RHad the same issues on the GF.. just less because no shaking...
Nit's a perk of non twist MCG haha, only grip that can do it
Njust using a threaded lever clamp to replace the grip fastener's screw
N
ROh, right! I get it!
RThat's pretty cool =)
RCheers
AI have a converted TM Warthog grip, I used a grub screw to be able to quickly release it from the VKB extension. Doesn't have twist either. However, I am contemplating modifying (3D printing) the twist base of my F14 grip to remove the twist and add a quick release.
DThanks that was the one!
SDo you find this extention to fell better than the standard goose neck? (Height aside).
HAlso curious about the z-extension ve my 20 mm gooseneck.
BFolks,
I put my name on the ordering list for a base but I'm currently around 800s on the waiting list. So I'm considering the self build option.
I'd appreciate if someone could explain the process . I understand that the kit is supplied with motors and boards, but from where do I source the other parts or are there drawings/ files from which I can manufacture or buy them ? Is there options of materials, like metal or 3D printing and is the software readily available?
I appreciate that these will be obvious to some, but I've browsed the channel and still unsure . Thanks .
I put my name on the ordering list for a base but I'm currently around 800s on the waiting list. So I'm considering the self build option.
I'd appreciate if someone could explain the process . I understand that the kit is supplied with motors and boards, but from where do I source the other parts or are there drawings/ files from which I can manufacture or buy them ? Is there options of materials, like metal or 3D printing and is the software readily available?
I appreciate that these will be obvious to some, but I've browsed the channel and still unsure . Thanks .
Fthere should be others
(I was in the same boat as you are three weeks ago was considering doing my own 3d print diy as there are loads of help around but found @SR-FWinger[73]_David can supply a kit of printed parts and all the little screws needed he even assembles the gimbal for you. Now here I am three weeks later with a fully built diy rhino installed and working, if you can follow an ikea build instructions or LEGO it’s as simple as that, even the electronics are simply plugging to correct plug into the correct socket
V:package: 
RHINO #0563 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0563 Has Shipped!V:package: RHINO #0564 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0564 Has Shipped!
DAt least you know which number you are, im still waiting for the results 