PNah no data sheet. I've had my eye on the KG Iron Joy KG-12 style grip. They're in the hotas discord if you want to check them out
Pthey said it should work with the Rhino
TTheir latest reply says it uses a BM4021 which I would bet is just a knockoff CD4021B. So I would think it would work.
SInteresting. Looks like they're modeling it after a WWII Luftwaffe style.
Pyeah I've got the vkb kg-12 v2 & it's ok, feels nice on the Rhino cause it's light but tbh I like the look of this kg-12 & it actually has a push on the hat, I can't believe vkb did a 4 way hat with no push. VKB should do drop in replacements for the side hat on their kg12. 4 way + push, push button, smi flush push button or even just a plain cover.
PHave just fitted a VirPil V.F.X grip onto my rhino base. I don't have the axes for the DLC or paddle switch - anyone have any idea what I'm doing wrong?
PDo they not show up in game or in the configurator software? If it's just in game than try calibrating in the software. Of it's not showing up in the software than idk.
PMy roll axis is grainy/sticky. It feels like there are tiny detents in the motor, or that it feels like a step motor. Either way it's making fine inputs tough. Is there possibly a go to spot to check or possibly lubricate?
Pwould this e stop work in the Rhino?
WRhino e-stop is 16mm diameter mount
TFirst choose CM2/3 stick. I’m sure the others work like the alpha with its LED’s (but the LED’s don’t work so far as I know)
After that you’ll have the option for the pinky paddle axis.
The axis for the pinky paddle has to be calibrated so click on that and calibrate and done.
Not sure what the DLC is so I’ll allow others to help with that.
After that you’ll have the option for the pinky paddle axis.
The axis for the pinky paddle has to be calibrated so click on that and calibrate and done.
Not sure what the DLC is so I’ll allow others to help with that.
Pwhat are the specific specs for the estop?
TAny creaking or noise or feel from the unit is most likely a loose or loosening screw.
A lot of folks find the screws that hold the grip connector onto the square metal tube can get a bit loose over time because of torsional stresses.
They lift up the leather boot and check the screws.
Also check the pulley screws and remember anything with belt drive will need maintenance eventually as belts either pull the rig in or the belts themselves slack over times.
So don’t forget to every so often check your belt tension.
Outside that those are the fixes for random squeaks, creeks, cricks, and/or wiggles and wobbles.
Good luck and keep up posted!
A lot of folks find the screws that hold the grip connector onto the square metal tube can get a bit loose over time because of torsional stresses.
They lift up the leather boot and check the screws.
Also check the pulley screws and remember anything with belt drive will need maintenance eventually as belts either pull the rig in or the belts themselves slack over times.
So don’t forget to every so often check your belt tension.
Outside that those are the fixes for random squeaks, creeks, cricks, and/or wiggles and wobbles.
Good luck and keep up posted!
PCopy that. I'll take a look under the boot and check the security of thr pulleys. Thanks for the input I'll let you know how it goes
RUnfortunately I have to cancel my pre-order at position 68. Where can I do that?
Fdm walmis
EHello, I hope someone can help me. The teleffb app stopped recognising when DCS is on, or when I'm in an airplane?
I deleted the line for telem in the export.lue in saved games, and the app copied the line back as expected.
any help apprciated!
I deleted the line for telem in the export.lue in saved games, and the app copied the line back as expected.
any help apprciated!
PIs there an easy/obvious way to tension the belts? I'm trying to troubleshoot my grainy roll axis and I'm not sure the best way to disassemble this.
PIf I can get this belt off I can at least determine if it's the drive or the pully/gear connected to the stick
NDid you recently install SimHaptic by chance?
If not, check the DCS logs for errors related to
If not, check the DCS logs for errors related to
TelemFFB.lua
PThank you. I believe I've identified the hang up. I looks/feels like the motor gear/pulley is rubbing against the case. I'm struggling to get a gap in there
ENot Simhaptic, but openkneeboard. I thought I had uninstalled it (because immediately telemffb stopped working), but as soon as I ctrl+f the log for telemffb, next line under that, was openkneeboard. I found the files in the hook folder. deleted those, and telmffb works again. Thanks for your help.
PI'm happy to report that as I suspected, I'm just dumb. I only saw the one set screw on the drive gear, when in fact there was two. Pulling that gear out a few hairs relieved the interference.
Ninteresting... I've used OpenKneeboard pretty extensively and have never had an issue with it interfering with TelemFFB or any other export script (simshaker, etc..).
RI did on 07.05. no response. Anyone else I can contact?
T@Number481 Did you recently install SimHaptic by chance?
I’m about to for my new Dayton base shakers, is there something I should watch out for?
I’m about to for my new Dayton base shakers, is there something I should watch out for?
NTheir first version with DCS support caused problems with many other apps (including TelemFFB) exporting data. Their latest version fixes it.
HMake sure, that the gears and belts don’t rub against something. E.g. your seat. You would waste hours of trouble shooting without a result….. ask me how I know…. 
BI tried to run Simracingstudio to run my wind fans but it immediatly causes my rhino to go limp
CSounds like it's stealing the telemetry and not sharing. I have found Telemffb is good at sharing. Other programs not so much.
BThankyou colonel, I found that you can set simracingstudio to forward telemetry and I found the necessary info in the vpconfig documentation and now it works. I have streamdeck set to open the canopy and turn on the fans with one button press and to close the canopy and turn off the fans with a other button., so after I land after a sweaty mig killing session I can open the canopy for a cool breeze.
CSounds like a good set up. Glad you were able to resolve
AI'm still having this problem and wondering if there's any chance of a fix soon? I believe it's probably software related, but when strong spring forces are applied, my pitch axis is not smooth on pullbpack, there's a spot where it's like the resistance changes a bit. I have no force compensation, i've tried playing around with different motor and psu currents, but it really doesn't seem to make a difference, maybe there's some other settings I am missing? but i often find this affect really distracting when flying with stronger spring forces 
RI tried again but I'm not able to send a dm to him due to his privacy settings. @walmis can you please tell me how I'm able to cancel my pre-order? Thanks
WDone, thanks. It's possible to cancel the preorder once you receive the purchase invite email too.
RThanks
HHave you made sure that the pulley is firmly connected to the motor axis?
Ayeah, i'm 99% sure it's a software thing around how it blends the forces when it hits the max level, it doesn't so much feel like something is popping out or skipping, but moreso like the resistance force changes
Ahere's a video that shows things a bit better, it does appear to reduce the effect a bit if i reduce max motor current, but doesn't completely get rid of it. another interesting thing i notice in the vpforce ui, is the pink arrow seems to jitter around where that point is that i feel the effect
NYour Ibus is maxing out at "max PSU current". I think if you increase that to 8 or 9 you will notice the flat spot in the force later into the pull.. However, I dont know what the safe max for that value is so I'd clear it with walmis first
Ayeah -- i feel like it's probably something related to how those different fields work together
Acan anyone else repro this with spring up to 100% and a pull like that?
Aor is this something unique to my setup
NYes. At 30/7 (motor/psu) I feel the force max out around %80-90 of travel and you can see the red force arrow fluctuating as it is bouncing off one or both of those values.
Ado you run at those values yourself? or did you just change to repro? also thanks for testing!
NMy normal profile is 28/9 (my psu is rated for 9.5A so I guess thats OK 
). I guess I do still feel a bit of a flattening at the extremes, but its actually hitting against
). I guess I do still feel a bit of a flattening at the extremes, but its actually hitting against curr_y which seems to map to the motor current@ 28AAare you running a custom PSU? or just the one that shipped with the rhino?
Nthe one it shipped with (19v 9.5A). My pedals PSU is 24V 10A.. wonder if it would feel any different with that PSU vs the standard one? How that all calculates out is beyond my electrical knowledge 
