I’m about to do a diy kit I believe, meant to message you in the 142nd earlier
I’m about to do a diy kit I believe, meant to message you in the 142nd earlier
JHighly recommend it. Support here is second to none.
1That’s what pretty much sealed it for me, this is a really involved company/community
1Thanks
Chey, what settings can I adjust to prevent my axis from going limp? and what values should these be? mainly seems to be from telem FFB in conjuction with higher spring gains.
WCan you show us your current configurator settings?
C
WTry reducing the damper force LPF values until you get more stability
TIf you need ANY help at all we’re all here for ya.
It’s the most amazing thing you’ll ever see…
A Rhino.. Flying!
It’s the most amazing thing you’ll ever see…
A Rhino.. Flying!
TBut no seriously if you search back to my post in the DIY section I took A LOT of pics from alternate angles and post A LOT of tips from the build including some wire photos and some photos that show the “proper orientation” or the gimbal slot and the motors.
TExample tip (see the photo).
This is how you wire the Emergency Stop switch.
Power (+) comes from the plug and goes to the C side of the Stop Switch.
Power (+) goes from the NC side of the Stop Switch to the main board.
Ground (-) goes directly from the plug to the main board.
Some small tips wiring like this (that aren’t in the manual) can be best explained in photos or be reading through other people’s builds and collecting a few choice reference photos.
This is how you wire the Emergency Stop switch.
Power (+) comes from the plug and goes to the C side of the Stop Switch.
Power (+) goes from the NC side of the Stop Switch to the main board.
Ground (-) goes directly from the plug to the main board.
Some small tips wiring like this (that aren’t in the manual) can be best explained in photos or be reading through other people’s builds and collecting a few choice reference photos.
TSo my advice is to start collecting a few pics from working units
And to read through some folks builds and see if they had a problem.. How was it resolved?
I myself got stuck trying to be “too precise” at the centering part of the calibration set up..
Not realizing this ain’t no regular stick.
Not only can you can that later you can change it so it has more roll than pitch (like most normal airframes are in real life)
You can set it so you just sort of tune the spring and centering and the basic effects on the fly..
So yeah finding about the issues and fixes others had will also help with your own build.
Otherwise like I said never hesitate to post if you’ve got a problem or an issue.
It’s like you said I checked out all the FFB before I jumped in and I watched this community for months, and I’m part of the other communities as well and I saw for myself which software and which community was best for me.
No dig on the others because I’m all for more options and better cost but for me… I fly a Rhino.
And to read through some folks builds and see if they had a problem.. How was it resolved?
I myself got stuck trying to be “too precise” at the centering part of the calibration set up..
Not realizing this ain’t no regular stick.
Not only can you can that later you can change it so it has more roll than pitch (like most normal airframes are in real life)
You can set it so you just sort of tune the spring and centering and the basic effects on the fly..
So yeah finding about the issues and fixes others had will also help with your own build.
Otherwise like I said never hesitate to post if you’ve got a problem or an issue.
It’s like you said I checked out all the FFB before I jumped in and I watched this community for months, and I’m part of the other communities as well and I saw for myself which software and which community was best for me.
No dig on the others because I’m all for more options and better cost but for me… I fly a Rhino.
BMakes a huge difference to have a builder and community that shares your priorities over say Brünner that spent like 6 years before they even added official support for dcs.
RGot a werid request. Currently no matter what I do as far as settings the stick is very bouncy. For example, lets say i am flying a helo and trip the stick to forward right position, I then hit trim reset and the new center is different. If i let the stick go it goes to center and then bounces around until it settles on the center and stabilizes. Another example, is you are trimming and set your new center, then let go of grip. The stick still has some bounciness or springiness until it settles. what do i set to take out the bounciness so it acts like a real cyclic using hydraulics, etc. I understand some of the limitations due to being belt driven, but there has got to be a way. My current settings are spring 80, damper 40, inertia 2.5, friction 8, adaptive centering enabled, static force, and balance spring.
RAnother thought is the adaptive centering is only 12% of max spring setting, can you give the user the option to increase this, especially for those flying helos when trimming is a constant thing so the centering hasa stronger force and is quicker to retain the new center. I'd be happy to beta test. @Number481
WCan you screenshot your settings/effects tabs?
RIve got a recent set posted on the discord just gotta find it.
R
REasiest way to describe is using the kiowa hot or cold start and have the scas and trim on. from starting position. take cyclic and move all the way to right or left and just let go. It snaps nack to center and bounces around until its stabilized. Easiset way to compare is the spring door stoppers youd flick as a kid.
RI dont see it as an error or friction is to high, as I have had the issue int he past and we adjust my hz and it went away.
RCurrent settings except i added static force back and changed limiter to 8x10 from 11.
R
R@walmis
AYou don’t need hardware trim with the Kiowa, unclear if maybe that’s fighting with the in game one?. One thing in general I would suggest is also disabling inertia globally like this
AIn fact, as a general debug thing, might be worth disabling all effects, and see if that fixes it.
AAlso for Kiowa special settings, what do you have?
RDo you have spring, inertia, friction, and damper enabled on the effects tab?
Ai personally dont, i like to keep the stick a dead stick, so i can tell if a sim has taken control of it or not
A(i don't really play any games that don't have FFB support)
Aand i want to add, say damper or something to a plane (to make it feel less springy) then i use TelemFFB overrides to do that
Abasically what my effects tab looks like
A(i also don't have an extension, so opted not to use a balance spring either)
RI dont use hardware trim in 58, thats an older pic but my current settings, minus the harware trim and static force.
RI have done that and it doesnt change boinging.
RI have everything enabled, but not stickied so DCS can do what it wants. these are my defaults for 60 mod. I never sticky anything.
RThe 60 mod doesn't have native support and the OH6 mod isnt that great. Only fly the 58 with native support, hence why I must use settings.
RI use teleffb for other setting changes, but let the vpforce manage my one profile and just turn hardware force trim on and off.
Aso a settings will still apply if the game doesn't set it, and i'm not sure if DCS will apply things like inertia or damping, so just to be sure it's not an effect like thing would be good to do a run with everything turned off. All that said -- have you double checked axis assignments, to make sure you don't have another axis also bound that's fighting with your rhino?
RYup, no double binds confirmed. I have tested with nothing in effects tab checked and still get the boing.
Aalso -- fwiw -- i wouldn't apply inertia and damper via the configurator, instead i would use telemffb to do it: because then it can detect which aircraft you are flying and apply appropriately (i think the hardware trim will still be necessary though)
RIll try it.
A
R@amadeus what does your settings tab look like?
Amake sure you have something like those settings for the OH-58D
RYup I use FFB Force 50
RSince my settings tab has 100 and effects tab is at 75 for default profile.
Afor reference, here are all of my settings in the configurator and telem:
R@amadeus any recommendations for warbird settings?
RDo me a favor. Get in the 58. Hot or cold doesnt matter. When at fly and ready for take off. dont use the trim release and pull the cyclic as far right or left as you can and let go. tell me how your stick behaves. Or video it. If you are willing and have time. Thank you.
RWanna see what others are experiencing.