Hi, How is it connected to USB ? Hub, front, rear panel port ?
Hi, How is it connected to USB ? Hub, front, rear panel port ?
AIt's connected to a powered hub.
WTry using a direct connection to PC, some hubs are wonky
WHow many HID devices do you have running?
WProbably there's some resource conflict within the OS, hard to tell. I would go unplugging them one by one and see when DCS is able to enumerate the Rhino properly. How about replugging the Rhino USB with DCS running? DCS has hotplug support, it should detect the event and re-enumerate the Rhino.
AI did connect it directly to the back of my computer and it now appears to work. Thanks for your quick help.
DI didn't realize we had such a problem for us lefthanded people! So what are the possible grips generaly a lefthanded player can put on a rhino vpforce ( vkb, thrustmasters, virpil, what else? ), I think virpil mongoose is suitable but only secondhand if I am not wrong...is there somewhere to get a new one?
Athe virpil alpha and alpha prime have left hand variants
WThe issue noted in this discussion (📃general) happened again. I had powered off my PC for about an hour. After powering it back on (Rhino had been powered the whole time) and started the configuration, all values showed as the factory defaults (master, spring, damping, inertia, at 100, 30, 30, 30 respectively)
I had to press the Load button to have the correct settings show. Is this by design or does the configuration app read the values saved in the stick at app startup?
I had to press the Load button to have the correct settings show. Is this by design or does the configuration app read the values saved in the stick at app startup?
WWhat happens if you set the custom values, store config and unplug and plug USB back in?
Maybe you have telemFFB setup to load some configuration automatically?
Maybe you have telemFFB setup to load some configuration automatically?
WIf the configuration tool is running, the values remain the customized values. I do have telemFFB loading a custom profile, but only for the F18. However, this happened without TFFB or DCS running.
WI had to press the Load button to have the correct settings show. Is this by design or does the configuration app read the values saved in the stick at app startup?This leads me to believe telemFFB is loading a configuration file to the controller and when you press "load config" it loads the values last stored in flash and sends them to the configurator app.
NWhen you push a profile from TelemFFB, it will persist on the device unless you load a profile with another aircraft or you have the "global default" set with a startup profile in TelemFFB system settings. There is also an option to push a profile when you close TelemFFB to leave the device in your preferred "inactive" state...
WCan't remember what those settings are. Will check them later and get back to you. I just want to say that this is extremely minor issue - just something I noticed one day. The software you all have created is outstanding!
FAnyone having an idea how to tackle this?
LSince no one more knowledgeable has come to rescue... did you already try to increase Periodic Effect LPF? (This is relevant only if you have set periodic slider > 0 in Settings page)
SHi, I recently received a motor kit for the Rhino base. Unfortunately the board does not seem to work. I checked the pins on the board. There is power at the 19.8 V at GND and PWR IN and also at the motor outputs. But there is no sound, USB does not show up on the computer and when I measure the 5V output at the 5-pin JST plug (> Joystick Buttons) then there is nothin. At the 3V Pin of AUX-SW port I found 0,68 V. Any ideas?
WMaybe try a little dampening?
SOkay - I've found the issue: the USB socket had a cold solder joint
CHey everyone, I noticed that when I trim the 15 in DCS the stick in game will change position but mine wont. is there a setting I'm missing or is that not supported?
NIf you're talking about the E, you need to enable the force feedback option in its special settings.
Cahh, I set that but restarting the game got it working, thanks!
NMost likely you are just experiencing poor interaction between how we do autopilot following and the AP implementation in that aircraft. Most aircraft are fine, but some just don't like it.
This is with the default XP12 Baron? I'll see if I can reproduce.
The usual issue is that we react to the elevator/aileron servo telemetry and move the stick accordingly, but the sim has no idea that you the user is not pushing on the stick. So if the AP moves the servo forward and we react, this adds down elevator to the axis, which the AP then tries to correct with aft movement of the servo, we react.. round and round in circles we go.
Its one of the big issues with trying to do FFB outside of the sim when the sim has no idea whats going on.
This is with the default XP12 Baron? I'll see if I can reproduce.
The usual issue is that we react to the elevator/aileron servo telemetry and move the stick accordingly, but the sim has no idea that you the user is not pushing on the stick. So if the AP moves the servo forward and we react, this adds down elevator to the axis, which the AP then tries to correct with aft movement of the servo, we react.. round and round in circles we go.
Its one of the big issues with trying to do FFB outside of the sim when the sim has no idea whats going on.
Ayeah i feel like the only way you could get around that would be like creating fake axis that you actually feed to the game, and then have some state-based way to handle the movements of the stick and map those back in
NThis is actually how we handle trimming and is what the physical/virtual sliders are for in TelemFFB. Autopilot following is a bit more simplistic though.
Haven't gotten around to revisiting the AP following yet to see if it can be improved.
Haven't gotten around to revisiting the AP following yet to see if it can be improved.
Ayup that makes sense
Phey guys this virpil extension cable is giving me hell. Does anyone know what sort of cable it is specifically like if I was going buy one from somewhere in Aus?
CHi there, I forgot to get the Winwing adapter when I paid for my Rhino. Only realised when I came to connect my F16ex stick, so currently using my old TM Warthog stick.
Couple of questions.
1. Can I order the adapter separately and is it easy to fix, I’m useless at anything mechanical, wife says I can’t even build a IKEA Bookcase.
2. IF I do put the adapter in, will I still be able to swap and use my TM Hornet and Virpil F14 sticks without taking everything apart each time I swap the sticks over?
Couple of questions.
1. Can I order the adapter separately and is it easy to fix, I’m useless at anything mechanical, wife says I can’t even build a IKEA Bookcase.
2. IF I do put the adapter in, will I still be able to swap and use my TM Hornet and Virpil F14 sticks without taking everything apart each time I swap the sticks over?
AI haven't tested the Winwing adapter myself, but ordering it should be simple and installing it probably isn't too hard either
AI suppose you will have to remove the winwing adapter when you use the other grips, but I doubt that's very complicated
Aas a wild guess I'd say installing and removing the winwing adapter is fairly similar to installing or removing any TM style grip
TVery easy to install and remove the WW adaptor.
JWhat would cause VP force and the firware tool to show I have no firmware but the configurator to pick it up?
GHi. The VPForceBot says my order status is now “notified” but I don’t see anything in my DMs or my email. Where should I be looking?
GThank you!
EI found no answer to this question. Maybe I am posting it in the wrong place. I will be more than glad to post it somewhere else, but I would appreciate an answer because the problem is getting worse by the day. Thank you so much
PHey m8 if you wan to take the front panel off (panel on the same side as estop) you can see the estop & check that the wires are still connected, they are not soldered on the have ?connectors, it's possible they have come loose.
NJust FYI… This is what it looks like with the front panel off. Just need a torx driver to remove the 15 or so screws
Pmy only suggestion is to double check all connections of the estop, check the clips, double check the wire is secure at each end etc.
EI guess the problem is that the bolt which tights the switch is loose. I would like to have some guidance to dismantle the device and tighten the nut. I am not happy to estaré unscrewing without a plan or basic knowledge
Pyeah I recently had to replace my estop & as a non diy'er it's pretty daunting feeling the first time you have to open up the Rhino
EOk, this is good help. Good guidance. I will let you know about the outcome. As PINKMuD says, opening the Rhino can create a daunting feeling. Thank you very much to both of you
EI am also worried about the wooden frame, not to overscrew it. 
HOn the protomaker github is an assembly instruction that for all intents and purposes works for the Rhino.
EDo you have a link?
EDisregard. Found it
FI’m getting lots of these messages when I press the import button. The number of dialogues varies and I can’t see any logic to the files it’s talking about. I’ve reinstalled, with no joy.
WLooks like Qt wants to load a shared library from another application (Jotta) with a different Qt version. Not sure why though.
Xstrange, someone had following:
- USB Connected, all good, Chromium detects and board works well
- when powering on, nothing happens (no motors activated)
- when pluging/unpluging USB while motors are powered they go
- fan doesn't spin (maybe related)
anyone can suggest were to look?
Double checked wiring, everything seems correct
- USB Connected, all good, Chromium detects and board works well
- when powering on, nothing happens (no motors activated)
- when pluging/unpluging USB while motors are powered they go
activetimeout right away- fan doesn't spin (maybe related)
anyone can suggest were to look?
Double checked wiring, everything seems correct
Xpretty common wiring with color code
