“Hands off detection”……is that the “Hans on and off dead zone under Axis control in Telemffb??? C
“Hands off detection”……is that the “Hans on and off dead zone under Axis control in Telemffb??? Can’t see it anywhere else?
HHold on I'll get you a screenshot
NI'm not entirely convinced that the hands-off detection zone was the original culprit, but it is really the only setting we changed from default.. either way I'll take it as a win.
In general however, it is important to make sure that you get reliable hands on/off detection ("OVERRIDE" visible/absent on the PFD) when deflecting the stick against the spring and then releasing it back to center. If you don't reliably get "hands off" (OVERRIDE goes away), AFCS thinks you are still manually overriding and so won't "do its thing".. however simply being in a constant override state should not cause the runaway condition that was originally being seen.
In general however, it is important to make sure that you get reliable hands on/off detection ("OVERRIDE" visible/absent on the PFD) when deflecting the stick against the spring and then releasing it back to center. If you don't reliably get "hands off" (OVERRIDE goes away), AFCS thinks you are still manually overriding and so won't "do its thing".. however simply being in a constant override state should not cause the runaway condition that was originally being seen.
FSo it was something simple! Just had to figure out what it was 
FThe fact that the software can detect a hands on/hands off setting is amazing to me. So cool.
HYeah, so odd. We really only changed one thing but here's the kicker I went and plugged the rhino into the laptop. Completely separated from my desktop. It did the same exact thing where it drifted. 1 usb cable, no extra programs besides loop back and telem.
Ssystem menu, open config/log directory. rename userconfig.xml to somethign else. reopen telemffb
HFor shits and giggles tomorrow I'm going to plug back into my laptop and leave the 2% hands off and see if it drifts again. If it does I'll set to 5% and see if the problem disappears. This will indicate its most likely the default value of 2% was the culprit in my use case.
HGotta go way back in the convo lol.
Smaybe? never tried that.
HI thought maybe it was my flight stick so on my laptop I plugged a vkb into the lap top and removed the max flight stick. I bound a button from the vkb joystick as trim release and manually moved the gimbal by hand and still got the drift. Ruled out pc and hardware
Seither way would get you a fresh install. but, its nicer to just edit the xml file and trash individual settings you dont want. or just click the X button on the right side of settings. scalpel vs. sledgehammer
HIt's nice to know that's another option you pointed out. I like sledgehammers 
SXiMpLe - simple XML and JSON grid view editor, XML comparator, XML splitter and XML joiner, XSD validation and generation - one file, no installation (portable), freeware for non-commercial use
HVery interesting
Nthere's at least 4 ways to clear out your user config...
- Sledge Hammer
- "reset user config" from utilities menu + telemFFB restart
- manually delete userconfig.xml and restart TelemFFB
- Scalpel
- manually edit XML
- Delete model data using offline editor (for aircraft with default profile will simply delete your user settings..setting it back to default)
Sthat too. forgot that was in there
HScalpel if you have alot of profiles. For me I have just one, sledgehammer would do 
MOh Boy I’ve got a lot to learn. I have the VP rhino, finished my VP based pedals with FTR pedal switch and half way finished my VP based collective. All this so I can fly the excellent X-Trident A109SP……it’s so close to the real SP I fly……so keen to emulate the 4-axis AFCS based controls.
BTW what time zone are you guys? Just for future reference as I’m sure to need a nudge or two in the right direction! I’m in GMT+10
Cheers
BTW what time zone are you guys? Just for future reference as I’m sure to need a nudge or two in the right direction! I’m in GMT+10
Cheers
HLooking forward to seeing your setup. I'm on the EST time.
MEST? Is that in the USA?…….GMT-5?
NYes, -5 here on the us east coast. The A109 test build I sent you is a very rough 1st draft, cyclic only implementation. Lot of work left to try to bring it up to par with the implementation for the HPG helicopters.
HYeah
M<@Number481> ….I know……it would be great if it can as it’s such a very well modelled SP…….in fact as I now fly mostly the AW139 and 169 I use the SP for self currency to keep my grey cells in-tune with it
. X-Trident is not on Discord but on X-plane forum……there are many SP users that would benefit from using the VP based controls…….here’s hoping you can do some of your magic
cheers
. X-Trident is not on Discord but on X-plane forum……there are many SP users that would benefit from using the VP based controls…….here’s hoping you can do some of your magic cheers
FMy power input connection was pushed inside the base when plugging in the power cord. I was able to pull it back with sharp tweezers but it is escaping again when trying to plug in the power connector. The screws are also not holding it in place.
What is the easiest way to get inside to support this piece from the other side? Bottom plate? Would not want to tear the whole base apart.
What is the easiest way to get inside to support this piece from the other side? Bottom plate? Would not want to tear the whole base apart.
H@Number481 did some more testing this time on the laptop. The hands off sensitivity isn't the issue. My laptop I was on build 499. I immediately had the issue. I then upgraded telemffb to 20241213. Issue still present. I shut down the sim and installed build 500. Loaded back into the sim (telemffb) and issue was gone. So it appears you need build 500 and you need to reinstall it. This is also of course ensuring ipad settings in the sim are set per the manual
NHmm... still doesn't add up to any sort of "aha" moment unless your install was corrupted on both your desktop and your laptop somehow which seems highly unlikely. But, good to know in case someone runs into similar issue on the 145 in the future.
HYeah its so strange. First thing I would try is just copying over the build
Nsomething unrelated that occurred to me this morning when I read your wishlist post about the loopback app.
Your cyclic and collective grips are technically the same device ("arduino micro") right?
Something I added into TelemFFB a while ago that might help you...
The master instance also sends the button press events it sees to the child instances. So with the loopback app running with the arduino as source and your joystick as destination you should be able to bind the collective TR press in the collective TelemFFB instance without having a second loopback app running connected to the collective.
Since the joystick instance of loopback should also see the button presses from your collective grip, the master instance of TelemFFB will send those events to the collective instance.
Your cyclic and collective grips are technically the same device ("arduino micro") right?
Something I added into TelemFFB a while ago that might help you...
The master instance also sends the button press events it sees to the child instances. So with the loopback app running with the arduino as source and your joystick as destination you should be able to bind the collective TR press in the collective TelemFFB instance without having a second loopback app running connected to the collective.
Since the joystick instance of loopback should also see the button presses from your collective grip, the master instance of TelemFFB will send those events to the collective instance.
HI'm definitely going to give this a shot.
H@Number481 Any possibility to link dual controls and have them move accordingly without having a phsycial mechanical connection I.E software?
NTelemFFB isn't really designed in a way that would accommodate that and it only understands a single instance each of joystick/pedals/collective. It would be quite an overhaul to put the right pieces in place. And even then, you would need some means of manual handoff to know which was acting as the master at any point in time. It wouldn't be possible to have them both active and following each other at the same time.
HI wonder how brunner is doing it. They must sense pressure and see which is applying force and the software takes it from there. I could always mechanically link but I fear it may put too much stress on the motors even though they are 86s
Nnot sure unless there is some sort of deadzone between the two. The spring effect is responsible not only for providing the spring force, but is also what drives the center of the stick. If you had both following eachother you would end up with a feedback loop that would result in them following eachother but with no felt spring force since the center position of one would feedback into the other as you move it.
LYou shouldn't have to open it. I glued the connector back to the plastic part with locktite, has held for 1½ years.
FWill try that. Thanks
HYouTubeRotor - Sims
In this video I show you how to balance your rhino spring to work properly for the H145 and H160
FAwesome video! Can't wait to see you fly using the full setup.
HThanks for watching! Next are the anti torques. Still have to order a 2nd seat for the sim lol. Just bought a gentex heli helmet from my friend Phil in Germany.
FThis solved it for me. Cheers. 
CGreat video and such a beautiful cockpit!!!! Wow! So awesome!
HReally appreciate the video. A great explanation of something I haven't done much about when flying the AH64 in DCS.
AThere’s a few things to be careful of in that video tho: for starters, his power settings are for the large motors, I recommend most users shouldn’t mess with the default power settings unless you built the large motor kit.
Another thing - it shows calibration but never talks about force compensation which is also important. When forces increase, full deflection of the stick won’t trigger your max axis range
Another thing - it shows calibration but never talks about force compensation which is also important. When forces increase, full deflection of the stick won’t trigger your max axis range
HSo dont touch 30 / 7 for motor current / psu current that are the defaults then. And thanks for the clarification. I do like the "feeling" of the stick after having worked with the settings and static force. I found my 20 mm gooseneck and virpil grip to require way less balance spring than him.
AYup! The default power settings are all you should need and anything much higher will probably exceed the limits of your power supply or motor. I imagine it won’t damage anything, but probably prematurely shut down? Someone who’s more knowledgeable about that could probably weigh in
A(Assuming your rhino is one that Walmis built)
HLovingly built by the man, myth and legend himself 
HThanks for watching and the kind comments! It's one heck of cockpit!Alot of work but worth the effort!
RWhy is this? If you hold trim release you can then go full length axis.