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Investing In Expression, Not Gatekeeping, and The Future: A Menswear Manifesto

https://alittlebitofrest.com/2023/10/04/investing-in-expression-not-gatekeeping-a-menswear-manifesto/ TL;DR this started out as a piece on how we should invest in expressive pieces (or details) when we recognize what we want from our clothes (just like in any hobby) but in order to do, it required me to provide some additional context and background. So this is a long blog essay with parts on gatekeeping/elitism, the different approaches to getting dressed (pragmatism vs for fun), why what we like is worth it, and how i think the present and future for mens wear looks good. FYI there is a bit of leftist speak at the bottom, but i feel like it applied to my overall philosophy and point ...

What % of your income do you spend on clothes?

$1000-1500 (USD) is my baseline. If something major happens (i.e. weight loss, new job, or move to a totally different climate), I might spend double. But if I reach a point to where I already have everything I need in my wardrove, I could spend half....

What are some trends that you don't understand the appeal of at all?

Had this convo with a friend the other day and thought it'd be interesting to hear what you all have to say. The biggest one for me is bucket hats...totally flabbergasted that these are a thing. Someone will have a great fit going and then they throw on a bucket hat and immediately turn into Gilligan.
This is a lesser one, and I'm not even sure how on-trend it is these days, but colorblock stuff has always been totally lost on me. I almost never think it looks good. What say you?...

Post your favourite version of a "dad shoe"

Wanna see how it differs amongst all of us. This is what I have on today, Adidas Lexicon Consortiums, got em for 15 bucks at the Haven moving sale....
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how much is too much?

The more I read here, it's fairly obvious I'm basically stuck in time and not on-trend, which I'm 100% good with, because I've found a look that I enjoy and works for me and I'm happy with it. For those of you who are always on the newest trend and keep up with the changing fashion, do you just accumulate a ton of stuff over the years? My look is relatively simple and I've downsized my closet a lot over the years and the stuff I've kept are items I feel are more 'classic' or 'quality' (whatever...

Lunch with the FT: Anna Wintour https://on.ft.com/3rhxYH8

Even the legendary lunch with the FT can't make Anna Wintour say anything - I've lifted the text below from the comment section which pretty much sums it up. Wintour was making certain that this was not a meeting of equals, of two humans. By refusing to break bread and eat with the author, Wintour was implying "You are a mere mortal, I am a God. Go ahead, you have my permission to eat at my table in a restaurant that would not have seated you otherwise." Lunch with the FT sounds like a silly column. But if you read it every Friday you know how important the choice of restaurant, the setting, the food, the act of eating, of sharing plates, of sharing bottles, of appreciating or criticizing the wine can have in lowering the guest's guard. Go ahead and look up Sarah Fergusson's thirst for that bottle of Champagne during her trainwreck Lunch with the FT. Food and drink bring people to together. They allow people to bond and communicate at a deeper level. Oftentimes the choice of restaurant reveals a side of the guest we never knew existed, whether playful, serious, or of a past a long time ago and from a place far away. Wintour wanted none of that. Wintour endured another sterilized "interview" in a rigidly formal restaurant in a semi-private room far removed from the other mere 1 percenters....

No love for slim fits?

Seems like most people really dislike slimmer fitting clothing these days. Personally I think slimmer cut clothes most times just have a cleaner and more refined look, at least on myself. Definitely a lot of people out there who make the loose/boxy/baggy look work. Maybe something to do with my age (late 30s) or my size - I'm a relatively short guy (28-29 inch inseam) and in decent shape. Boxy and loose just looks sloppy and unflattering on me. I'm happy with my current look and don't plan on ch...

Permanent Style: How my style has changed over 15 years

https://www.permanentstyle.com/2023/09/how-my-style-has-changed-over-15-years.html A really good retrospective article from Simon Crompton. I think there's some nice general advice like not focusing on individual items as much, but also interesting personal thoughts like how he reflects on a more "showy" outfit from the past (Not sure Simon has ever been accused of being too "showy" but we'll roll with it). A quick read that I think is interesting to see either as someone new to the hobby or having been in it for a while. I find myself getting caught up in individual items still that just don't mesh with the rest of my wardrobe or my lifestyle, but that's part of the journey....

Decluttering/refining your wardrobe

Part of fashion is purchasing pieces and feeling the joy of how it fits in your style and the potential of how it'll make you feel. Also part of one's fashion is the process of letting go of pieces that no longer fit your current lifestyle or aesthetic. What have you removed from your wardrobe and what was the story behind it or interesting tales.

Helmut Lang SS24

The much anticipated debut collection from creative director Peter Do. https://www.helmutlang.com/ss24-collection/ Thoughts? Feelings? Can Peter Do bring back Helmut Lang?...
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Building a secondhand academic wardrobe

https://malefashionadvice.substack.com/p/how-i-built-an-academic-wardrobe I wrote this article a while ago but have since updated it with some in-line pictures and new items. Come check out my secondhand academic clothing adventure!...