there's only 1 entry for amperage to the motors in the configurator per motor pair. i suppose you could get 2 separate driver boards and accomplish the different settings that way. walmis would know for sure. might depend on the game, if its smart enough to send pitch and roll to 2 devices. xpforce can do it for msfs, i have a 2nd board with a big motor for rudder.
releasing the trim button does not result in the stick staying where i put it. In the huey it moves back to the center. REgardless of the option i choose in the special settings in dcs
It seems to be a weird problem you got there. I have been trying to reproduce your problem but no luck. Do you happen to have forced effect on for spring effect in VPForce configurator? That option stops the force trim from working. Does the stick become loose if you hold the trimmer button pressed or is the centering spring force active also when the trimmer is held down? Earlier you mentioned that you had trouble with the Apache trimmer also. Have you got that fixed?
Could you send a picture of your VPForce effects and settings tabs? Got to go to sleep now but I’ll check those tomorrow and see if I can help fix the problem.
i uploaded my vpconf file in support. only thing s enabled are spring, inertia, damper and friction. no force checkboxes are checked. stick becomes loose when trimmer is pressed. default setting in special tab gives similar results to the 'center' setting.
eliminating curves allows the huey cyclic to respond to trim appropriately. I wish there was a way to have curves for those precision moments. Ideally, there would be a button which could rescale axes on the rhino-but I think that's planned for a future release
Yeah this is a bug that's been around since at least 2017 if not longer. Apparently the 109 trim should be at like 86% for normal flight but as you pointed out you need full trim plus some stick input. The FFB community being so small these days I guess we're not at the top of the list for fixes
oh yeah I noticed that too and I brought this issue to attention a few times. Didn't realize you were talking about this because you said it went back to center. My solution to this is to use full length extension so I get all the precision I need.
yup, having curves on FFB axis in DCS f^$s everything up by moving the spring center forward, it's the same story with ww2 fighters, jets, etc. DCS isn't acknowledging it and until more of us complain they won't do jack shit. I was secretly hoping walmis could introduce an FFB axis curve sensitivity feature, however judging by the amount of work he must do it doesn't look feasible. Someone suggested using vJoy and doing virtual axis curves but it seems too complicated and I just don't trust all that virtual axis stuff...
Yea, walmis reminds me of how the US was in the early 20th century- clever, able individuals who made things like electric light bulbs, automobiles, airplanes, motors, etc. Supporting people like him is only possible through the magic of the internet. But im sure he knows other people like himself who can make similar advances- force feedback rudder pedals, dcs interfaces to real world drones, unifying software, chatGPT addons for realistic comms, etc.
apache is a brand new module, I feel they may have done something specific for it. As far as ww2 modules the curve on any of them moves the ffb center forward the same way, however there's a difference in trim behavior making it look like they have 'unique' issues..
Correct me if I'm wrong (I've yet to set up the rhino, have to wait for work to stop bugging me), but I was under the impression that curves were unneeded on a FFB stick? When I'd use the msffb2, I think I ran into this centering issue with warbirds, I had curves set for my other bases. But after removing, it felt like the curves were unnecessary compared to spring bases? But maybe I'm missing something in regards to the feeling
well, there's still a sensitivity issue with the axis themselves, regardless if it's FFB or springed. On Mosquito for example the real-life stick is very long and without curves Mossie is extremely twitchy in pitch axis, with the spring joystick I had to apply a curve of 40 to get it in to a comfort zone, same goes for P47, albeit it needs much less curve. With the german fighters no curves needed, the real-life stick length is more or less comparable to our joysticks.
oooh, I really like the webusb approach to the basic configuration. Better than most joystick testers and firmware updaters and honestly most windows UI frameworks suck.
Hey @warwolf09, So the last Shipped RHINO is #0058 on 2023-02-22 Average waiting time from preorder to shipped is 139 days, median is 156 days, max is 209 days 55 Rhinos are shipped in total
This is what I made to cope with Rhino's throw. I hope someone gets some ideas / learns from my mistakes Not 100% sure the stick will not hit my chair. The front panel (seen in the back) support is hinged and its upper edge leans on the edge of the table like it used to. Blue marks the position of my old stick mount.
Looks like a sensible jig for this purpose but I still limiting the range of motion to be in line with real aircraft with long sticks is still the better solution. You can adjust the throws in the software, but you could also modify the gate the shaft passes through on the top of the base to physically confine it to a suitable throw. Displacement of grip travel is what it's based on... long shaft + short throw to achieve the same distance as short shaft+long throw.
My throttle pedestal? Thanks, though its throttles are mediocre at best...I can land on a carrier most of the time but visiting a tanker remains a dream.
Yep! Sweet B8 I was looking for where to find some resources to make triggers, and PCB to wire all the buttons too (maybe one like virpil to have an axis for brake)
Yep, that’s how I did it. “Shift Register PCB” might be a bit more accurate description. I just finished wiring mine last night to fit my current DIY gimbal but planning to make it work with 5pin mini DIN like the TM grips and be swap-able in the next version.
Yep, I used two micro switches to get a dual stage trigger effect. The spring tabs on the switches helped with the reset but I ended up having to help it out a bit with a pen spring.