what's the best FFB experience with Rhino/TelemFFB in MSFS?
what's the best FFB experience with Rhino/TelemFFB in MSFS?
MHi, quick shout out to those using the Rhino with the DCS Apache module. I am interested in best recommended settings. I have checked the FFB box in Misc, and tried both instant trim and the no springs & FFB option. They both seem to work, the stick stays where it is when you go up on the force trim. Whats the difference between all the options when using the Rhino? Second query regards the Force trim settings in effects - what is recommended here? Third query is regarding the FFB tuning options in controls, again, whats recommended here? Answers to these questions would be appreciated, and any other tips etc to get the most realistic and effective experience. Thanks
DI guess when using ffb kit for MFG crosswinds dampener is obsolete and not needed anymore?
FYou don't have to use the force trim settings in the effects tab of the VPforce tool when playing DCS.
it is meant for games that don't natively support force trimming.
I just use moderate effects in the VPforce software and default in TelemFFB. all those are subjective to each individual user I'd guess.
it is meant for games that don't natively support force trimming.
I just use moderate effects in the VPforce software and default in TelemFFB. all those are subjective to each individual user I'd guess.
EI often find that one of my two FFB pages suddenly loses connection with DCS. What could be causing this?
Fyou are using two instances of TelemFFB at once? why?
EBecause one is for the joystick and the other is for the rudder pedals.
EJoystick and Pedal
DI think latest Wip drasticly improved forces and general vibrations and feeling in MFS in general. Anything I tried flying I was blown away how good it felt compared to before
EOn this page, I've already switched to the F-18 in DCS, but my rudder pedals are still stuck on the AH64D. This is strange, and of course, the F-18's rudder FFB feedback is definitely not available.
WI think @Number481 might have some insights here. But it's best to move telemFFB related discussions here: https://discord.com/channels/965234441511383080/1093558100713279508
Eok
Sthat's good news! I'll figure out how to install the WIP then.
any particular favourites of yours?
any particular favourites of yours?
SIt seemed okayish when I tried a helo, but the Rhino was trembling awkwardly when I tried the Dune ornithopter. 
MThanks, any comment regarding 1st & 3rd queries?
SWill these only ever be offered for the MFG? I recently sold mine and got Slaw RH Rotors.
FI use instant trim (ffb friendly) for the cyclic as that was recommended.
Without springs and FFB wouldn't make sense since we are using FFB.
for the settings there isn't really a recommendation. Play around and use what you like.
also use TelemFFB, too
Without springs and FFB wouldn't make sense since we are using FFB.
for the settings there isn't really a recommendation. Play around and use what you like.
also use TelemFFB, too
AI think we're about to find out if the kit works with older mfgs
MJust been trying stuff out, instant trim is the way, I agree. The telemFFB effects are superb, I was using a CM3 Virpil base before which was very nice, but this is really good. Been using a Rhino in my jet sim pit for around 6 months now and really love it and was wondering how much better one would be in the Helo pit. Pleasantly surprised!
CI know it's pointless with the current state of what sims are exporting and such, but I'd really love to have ffb on the brake axes at some point. Steering airplanes with differential braking is easy in real life, but a PITA in the sims.
CBut any idea what the time fram is going to roughly be for people who go ahead and fill out the mfg preorder today?
PI've wondered how load cells would go on the toe brakes, I believe someone here did try it as a mod. If it could be done somewhat close to the racing sim brakes it might feel a lot better & be a bit more precise, I for one would def love some really nice feeling toe brakes closer to irl.
Cfor sure. I actually think it would be more of an improvement for me than the actual rudder axis. I don't fly helis at all, though.
TLoad cells or force sensing resistors are on my list for a mod someday. Need to build my FFB stick/rudders/collective first though.
MV2 and V3 are almost identical, the only thing that moved is one screw hole, but didn't Walmis say that this kit is gonna require some drilling anyways? Not sure how much V1 varies, but I imagine due to the fact that you are replacing the entire MFG drive and swapping in the VP Force drive, it should be possible, since they should have a damn near identical footprint
AI'm wondering about the tow brake sensor connectors
Cthing is, if there's no info coming back from the sim about when exactly the brakes are engaging or how much brake force is being applied in the sim, the ffb on the axes is kind of useless. It wouldn't be helpful beyond just making the brakes "feel" better.
NI see two problems here.
1.) Our calfs/feet are pretty strong. It would be nigh physically impossible to get motors and/or gear reduction on the brake axes that were strong enough to produce even remotely convincing results.
2.) Lack of telemetry. Given what I know about telemetry from the various sims I would put them in this order:
1.) Our calfs/feet are pretty strong. It would be nigh physically impossible to get motors and/or gear reduction on the brake axes that were strong enough to produce even remotely convincing results.
2.) Lack of telemetry. Given what I know about telemetry from the various sims I would put them in this order:
- X-Plane - probably has data you could use
- MSFS - maybe has enough data to use
- DCS - no way
- IL-2 - not a snowballs chance in hell
Ctelemetry is the big one for sure. the feedback doesn't have to be real world convincing. It just needs to tell you that the brakes are engaged and applying force or they aren't. As long as it's enough feedback to feel the actual engagement point, it would be enough. Taxiing warbirds is a PITA right now, or engaging the brakes unevenly after landing and suddenly veering towards one side of the runway.
NIve said before that I've thought about buying some different rubber balls/tennis balls/racquet balls to see if I can shove one of them in the hinge point of my Virpil pedals to see if I can get a more progressive brake feeling than that standard linear springs
TI guess you'd install FFB on your pedals so you wouldnt have to remove the spring between fixed wing and rotary every (bloody!) time?
Nthat is, by far, the biggest benefit, and worth every penny in its own rite IMHO. You also get dynamic forces with non-FBW aircraft, trim following and of course all of the other auxiliary effects too.
TI'm gonna sign up just for the spring replacement feature!
SYeah, this feature alone is tempting me to pick up another set of MFG’s. Anyone want to buy some Slaw’s?
MIt's just gonna be an adapter that runs the hall sensors to the VP Force board, not another axis of FFB
Athe cables are different
Ais there an adapter I can get or make for that:
Nthe two ports on the the VPforce board are analog inputs... presumably the hall sensors on the pedals are digital output sensors?
NIt's why I didnt explore trying to re-route the inputs on my virpil pedals..
NI'm also only %80 sure of what I'm even talking about.. maybe theres a way I dont know about
WYeah, the pot inputs on the Rhino board will accept the toe pedals from the MFGs, so the original board will be completely redundant
Nahh.. nice.. thats a big +
TBut then you would lose the ability to adjust FFB effects with a pot, right? Or can another board (I.e. the stick’s board) control effect strength globally?
TVia TelemFFB
Athey do sell a completely new set of sensor+cable
AI don't know if this is mechanically compatible with the V1 pedals https://mfg-sim.com/rudder-spare-parts/set-of-brake-axis-cables-2x-for-v23-pedals-yoinnovati-preassembled.html
MFG
Spare part for MFG Crosswind rudders V2/3
Aor is there some kind of a simple adapter I can make (I'm assuming the new board has the V2/3 style connector?)
AIn general it might be a good thing to mention about the difference especially if an adapter can't be provided
MThose sensors are almost certainly just a digital in/out. The connector in that case would likely just need to be swapped out to match the new style connector to tie in to the rhino pedal board
Mthe pedals will have their own control board, so this is completely separate from your stick and it's pot control
Sif you set your settings like this, you can do it all in one window. And then click on the logo JOYSTICK to switch
