How can I know which setting to lower and if I should do it in vpforce or telemffb?
How can I know which setting to lower and if I should do it in vpforce or telemffb?
Pvpforce config is for your "global settings" Telemffb is to tweak the effects per aircraft (tbh I'm still on the older telemffb app)
Pbasically the Settings Tab is where you set the overall limits for the base, then the Effects Tab is where you set what % of those limits the base will let the sim use eg. If you set the Spring to 100% in Settings Tab then to 50% in the Effects Tab the sim will be able to use 50% of the 100% Spring force.
PSo a Spring setting of 100% then the effect spring setting at 10% will only let the sim use 10% of the overall Spring "power"
PFriction & Inertia (at least for my set up) seem to cause the most instability, you see on my Setting Tab Friction is set to only 10% then in the Effects Tab Friction is only 10%, so that is only using 10% of 10% if you get what I mean.
PFrom my understanding (I may be wrong talk to Walmis) the Expert Settings Hz seem to be the power ie. electrical power to the motor for those effects.
LI have trouble understanding why the settings can seemingly go so far beyond the capability of the hardware. Why do we have to limit anything so far below the maximum just to avoid getting an error? If 100 was the true maximum for any setting this process would be much easier.
PYeah obviously Walmis would be the guy to answer that one but I gues it depends on the settings combination. Have you tried all the sliders in the Settings tab to 100% then Effects Tab put everything on like 1% & work up from there in small increments. Keep in mind that I have Friction on 10% of 10% so you will need to work the settings up in very small amounts.
TWith my dual 8604 “Greater One-Horned Rhino “ and my 8604 TPR FFB pedals, I’m at 100% on all sliders. But they are different animals than the “Common Rhino”. 
TLI haven't tried that, but what is the purpose of setting anything to a percent of a percent? That seems redundant and unnecessary. One setting should be able to accomplish what you want.
DHi! I have received my unit. I
Dm trying to put it together, however, the VKB adapter is extremely tight on the F14 grip and I cannot get it to sit all the way. The Modern Gunfighter grip sits without any problem, but I'd need my F14 grip on there. I applied a lot of force (not pinching on the cable), but there is still a gap. Any ideas or solutions? thanks!
TThe way I think about it is that in VP config is the max possible force. I have that at 100%. You can then reduce any forces from within the TelemFFB app and they will be proportionally decremented per your TelemFFB settings. I’m relatively new to this so I might be mistaken but that’s how I’m rolling.
SHas anyone ever brake it like me?I have a 40cm extension and i broke it with the F4E
WThe problem is that we don't know the true maximums. The system can have different motors / drive ratios / weights and that contributes to different stability margins.
- The sliders in the Settings tab set the per effect global limits
- The basic effects in the Effects tab (such as Spring, Damper) create a on-device effect similarly how an FFB application would and adheres the limits set in the settings tab. Those effects (in Effects tab( are overriden when an FFB application takes over.
DAlso, could someone provide some default settings for the config software? Coming from no FFB I don’t know how it should feel
TThe default is part of the set up but you’ll have to jump in a plane to see how it feels.
Try something snazzy like a warbird
Try something snazzy like a warbird
TThink of an extension like force multiplier.
On one end it lowers the force we receive from the motor by moving the center out.
On the other end (our end) think of it like a lever, or more like a pry bar or what’s commonly called a breaker bar for taking apart BIG stuff.
The more distance you have the greater force you can exert (and by resisting it as well).
Sort of like trying to take off your tire with a short socket wrench takes a lot more force than it does with the long lug nut break bar.
Same idea but backwards so.. yep an extension allows you to push harder with the same physical force.
The other main culprit with ANY 3D print is flex and failure over time.
In other words sometimes S just happens but the beauty is you can just print another.
Facts are parts sometimes fail and that’s just part of the DIY game.
Thanks for sharing though because I’m ALWAYS interested in part failures and if they can be mitigated or if it’s just a wear and tear thing, print orientation thing, soooo many variables to consider so again thanks for sharing.
Happy re printing and Happy flying!
On one end it lowers the force we receive from the motor by moving the center out.
On the other end (our end) think of it like a lever, or more like a pry bar or what’s commonly called a breaker bar for taking apart BIG stuff.
The more distance you have the greater force you can exert (and by resisting it as well).
Sort of like trying to take off your tire with a short socket wrench takes a lot more force than it does with the long lug nut break bar.
Same idea but backwards so.. yep an extension allows you to push harder with the same physical force.
The other main culprit with ANY 3D print is flex and failure over time.
In other words sometimes S just happens but the beauty is you can just print another.
Facts are parts sometimes fail and that’s just part of the DIY game.
Thanks for sharing though because I’m ALWAYS interested in part failures and if they can be mitigated or if it’s just a wear and tear thing, print orientation thing, soooo many variables to consider so again thanks for sharing.
Happy re printing and Happy flying!
HHi, is there a step-file of the gimbal-stick-connector? I can only find an .stl - thank you!
Hhi, I answered you in the DCS-forum as well. I think a 40cm extension is quite excessive for a 3D-printed gimbal. Leverage and so..... It seem to have broken along the layers. Have you printed it yourself? If so, try to print it in a different orientation (make the layers perpendicular). It may look less nice, but is stronger.
Hideally, I would print it, so that the layers are oriented on the roll axis, when the stick is assembled. That would give the greatest strength towards the pitch axis, where (assumingly) the greatest forces are applied.
Npin this please... it comes up at least once a week and is always explained differently by whomever responds 
SThanks guyz i will make a smaller extension
Sremember me something. when i calibrate it center what value should be?
Nyou want center somewhere around 2048, but what really matters is that the endstops are between 0 and 4096
HYour gains seem excessive. Can you show your corresponding effects page?
Hmaybe pin this answer - It is valuable explanation. I got it completely backwards (which gives probably the same result, but still - this is helpful in understanding the software)! TY
Si use recalibrate it
HAs I undertstand it, the effects-gains and settings-gains are multiplied with each other (and then multiplied by master gain) - so in effect it probably doesn't matter on which side you adjust them, as long as the product isn't too high. @walmis , please correct me if I got it wrong.
Snow i think i am okay
S
Sis there anyting you suggest me to change here?
WIt does matter - Settings in the "Effects" tab are overridden by application, and have no effect when the application drives the Spring for example. So in order to tune down the strength of the effects you need to set via the sliders in the settings tab.
An example: Let's say an application creates and sets a Friction effect to max : 4096 (100%) and you have no control over the application. In this case you set the Friction slider to an acceptable value, for example 30%.
An example: Let's say an application creates and sets a Friction effect to max : 4096 (100%) and you have no control over the application. In this case you set the Friction slider to an acceptable value, for example 30%.
HOk - understood. Than my conclusion would be, it is better (safer) to put the effects settings to 100% and control the overall strength with the settings page? (And or master-gain)
DUnfortunately when I hit reset, as the motors weren’t responding, all the settings were reset to a ‘conservative’ setting. I could not find an image of the default settings after that, and anytime I restarted the software the new settings were showing, which were all 0
WThere is a default Rhino config in the
click import then store config. Also make sure to to run auto calibration after, since your calibration was reset too probably.
configs/RHINO-defaults.vpconfclick import then store config. Also make sure to to run auto calibration after, since your calibration was reset too probably.
DThank you!!
DAnd do you have any solution for the F14 stick problem? If not then I’ll need to get another adapter. In the end I was able to hammer it down but there is no way it will come off now 
WHmm, is it the shaft itself or the small pin that's the issue?
LHow can I fix this behavior? This is in dcs with the apache. I hold trim release and move the stick, but the center does not remain where the stick is physically and when I release the trim button the stick moves back to a different "center" than where it should be
Nget rid of your axis curves in DCS
LThanks, forgot I had put any in
Neveryone does 
DThe shaft itself. Even on the vkb extension there is a little bit of resistance compared to the gunfighter, but it feels like rubbery resistance and goes down fairly easy. But on the VPFORCE extension grip it takes more force than I can put on it. Only way was with a hammer
FIs it normal? I use spring gain 20% with Max current 30A. So when full draw, axis current should show ~6A. But full aft shows 6.6~6.7A whereas full fwd, left and right shows ~6A
WYeah, that's normal. Anticogging takes some current
FOh I see thanks!
Atrying to open telemffb
NGenerally caused by one of two things.
- 1: Windows Defender or other AV ate some files due to false positive malware detection
- 2: You accidentally copied the exe out of the folder rather than creating a shortcut
HSpeaking of currents, I have a question about the motors: If I noticed correctly the fan activates when either motor (usually the pitch) reaches 50 C and turns of when under 45 C give or take, but I wonder what would be the critical temperature for the motors before they take damage? I can’t find any specs about it. 60, 70, 80 C…. when will they take damage?
I’m asking, 1. out of curiosity and 2. because I will use the same motor and pcb in my pedals-mod, but without a cooler. I assume it will work out, but who knows….. (btw. when will the current limiter set in?)
I’m asking, 1. out of curiosity and 2. because I will use the same motor and pcb in my pedals-mod, but without a cooler. I assume it will work out, but who knows….. (btw. when will the current limiter set in?)