Is the joystick supposed to show up as a mounted drive in the windows toolbar (like I could click ej
Is the joystick supposed to show up as a mounted drive in the windows toolbar (like I could click eject on it as if it was a memory card)
WYeah, that's a bug in Windows
NI don't understand. The issue that was being discussed the other day was related to having FFB enabled in DCS but not using a FFB joystick.
The F4 works just fine, trim and all, when using the Rhino.
The F4 works just fine, trim and all, when using the Rhino.
HYeah, here as well. No problems with the Phantom. Everything works as expected for me. (Rhino Stick and ffb pedals)
OWorking great so far
OMig-29 feels a little FBW, which it isn't. But I haven't used configurator or telemffb at all yet
HDid anyone have any buttons on their grip stop working after updating to 'v1.0.17b1'? I have a VPC MongoosT-50 CM2 grip connected to my Rhino. The forward and aft inputs of the 2-way+push on the right side have stopped working after the Rhino update yesterday. When connected to my Virpil CM2 base it works normally (confirmed by VPC Configuration Tool and Windows Game Controller), but when connected to the Rhino base, the fore and aft presses aren't detected. Downward press still works. I have VPC T-50 CM2 selected in the Grip Type drop down just as I did before updating. I noticed that the fore and aft presses are detected when I select Generic Grip or most of the other VPC choices, but using those can cause other conflicts. If it helps, the non detected inputs are normally listed in Windows Game Controller as 18 and 19, and 28 and 29 in VPC Configuration Tool.
ONope, just mapped those today actually
HHmm. Guess I'll play around with the settings, then. It's just weird that it's only with it on the Rhino, only with the CM2 grip type selected, and only after yesterdays update.
P@walmis hey m8, sorry again for ping. Is there a trick to removing the 3d printed grip attachment part? It seems to be on there really tight & I'm worried about damage to the gimbal??
Pshould I remove the metal shaft first?
Pok got the 3d part off but there is now way to install the new cable without cutting the plug end off & I don't have the tools to redo a plug like that?? 
PI got it sorry I'm a bit slow sometimes 
F@hectik me either
PAny idea what size screws I need for attaching the cable head to the new cnc bit?
W
KM3 x 8 mm Countersunk work well.
Pcheers m8
HJust for clarification, you mean you're having this problem too?
FYeah, I also uses cm2 grip and 2-way is not working after the firmware update
HSame here - not working after the firmware-update. It's probably an easy fix once identified. Let us know what we can do to help, Walmis 
THi there,
My vpp rhino won't update via web. It connects but never shows as connected so i cannot update fw.
Any ideas? i've tried different browsers and though the joystick is detected it wont actually connect.
My vpp rhino won't update via web. It connects but never shows as connected so i cannot update fw.
Any ideas? i've tried different browsers and though the joystick is detected it wont actually connect.
HDid you click on connect?
Tyes. lol ofc.
Tit just does not actually connectbut if I use the previous version the VPForce app it works perfectly, it works in game and everything as well
Tthe joystick is working everywhere but the browsers, remember i tried different ones and they all fail the same way
Tand i know com port passthrough is working in browsers because other apps and hardware that use webflashers work perfectly.
Tand nvm
Tit just worked after connecting reconnecting a few times
(@walmis is it possible to buy the cable from the joystick to the controller board separately as I’ve managed to trap and damage mine
HSomeone refresh my memory. When you go to https://vpforce.eu/usb/rhino/ and click 'connect', is that pink dot then supposed to move when your stick does? Mine doesn't, and I feel like it did a day or two ago. I'll add that it doesn't move even if the Configurator program isn't open, because I think I remember that you can only be connected to either one at a time.
NI tried a new beta firmware, but my old Virgil MongooseT50 is not supported yet. I already sent you requested information. Could you update firmware for it?
HHey, just retested with all the latest software updates. With FFB enabled and use of Rhino Stick and Pedals, I experience no issue. The Phantom trims just fine for level flight. Here are my settings:
H
MHi guys, I am using the Constellation Alpha on the Rhino, all works well BUT the Joystick "joystick hat "on the stick. Any hints how I can map this correctly (shows as hat 4 - always diagonal left up)
NI have an Alpha Prime and a Non-Prime(L), both work fine. Did you make sure to calibrate the x/y for the thumbstick?
MYes I did, also used recenter, but somehow it is not working. It only works down and left it seems, but at default its hows as it is pushed.
Iu se3ed the claibration and recenter in the config tool. Will try again tomorrow. But I was wondering if I have to "activate" it somewhere. The other 3 hats work fine.
Iu se3ed the claibration and recenter in the config tool. Will try again tomorrow. But I was wondering if I have to "activate" it somewhere. The other 3 hats work fine.
Nthe other 3 hats are actual buttons. The "button's" for the mini-stick are virtual buttons that get activated when the stick exceeds some (unknown to me) threshold. If you are calibrated correctly and seeing full excursion of the axis positions for Rx/Ry, IDK what else could be wrong.
MI'll take a screenshot tomorrow and share. Thanks for the help. If I remember correctly it was all maxed out all the time, but I will check after work.
AMaybe the calibration wasn’t stored on device?
CI'm using the Rhino, 200mm Extension, VKB MCG Pro. I seem to be having an issue that my X center position is always about -040 to -050 output value. I've added a balance spring, I've recalibrated a bunch of times and I'm still stuck. And the slight induced roll is kindof a pain. Any ideas?
CIs there a way to set the current position as the 0 position?
C
C
NI'd be curious, as a test, if you un-tick damper, friction and inertia (and apply), do you see proper centering?
HI would suggest to manually overwrite (don’t forget to apply and save) the calibration values to bring the center where it is supposed to be. I‘d recommend to either increase the lower value or decrease the higher value, depending on which side you want to go.
CMaybe better, but still -20s to -40s even with 40% balance spring
CSo just add 40 to my "X:min 572" value?
HProb half or double that. Just try. It‘s not dangerous if you keep the increments small.
COkay, that seems to be working pretty well
HProblem is that the system is elastic. Depending on the force you apply at each endpoint the mid point can be a bit off. Add an unsymmetrical weight distribution of the grip or an angled offset to this and you have some deviation.