Any idea what size screws I need for attaching the cable head to the new cnc bit?
Any idea what size screws I need for attaching the cable head to the new cnc bit?
W
KM3 x 8 mm Countersunk work well.
Pcheers m8
HJust for clarification, you mean you're having this problem too?
FYeah, I also uses cm2 grip and 2-way is not working after the firmware update
HSame here - not working after the firmware-update. It's probably an easy fix once identified. Let us know what we can do to help, Walmis 
THi there,
My vpp rhino won't update via web. It connects but never shows as connected so i cannot update fw.
Any ideas? i've tried different browsers and though the joystick is detected it wont actually connect.
My vpp rhino won't update via web. It connects but never shows as connected so i cannot update fw.
Any ideas? i've tried different browsers and though the joystick is detected it wont actually connect.
HDid you click on connect?
Tyes. lol ofc.
Tit just does not actually connectbut if I use the previous version the VPForce app it works perfectly, it works in game and everything as well
Tthe joystick is working everywhere but the browsers, remember i tried different ones and they all fail the same way
Tand i know com port passthrough is working in browsers because other apps and hardware that use webflashers work perfectly.
Tand nvm
Tit just worked after connecting reconnecting a few times
(@walmis is it possible to buy the cable from the joystick to the controller board separately as I’ve managed to trap and damage mine
HSomeone refresh my memory. When you go to https://vpforce.eu/usb/rhino/ and click 'connect', is that pink dot then supposed to move when your stick does? Mine doesn't, and I feel like it did a day or two ago. I'll add that it doesn't move even if the Configurator program isn't open, because I think I remember that you can only be connected to either one at a time.
NI tried a new beta firmware, but my old Virgil MongooseT50 is not supported yet. I already sent you requested information. Could you update firmware for it?
HHey, just retested with all the latest software updates. With FFB enabled and use of Rhino Stick and Pedals, I experience no issue. The Phantom trims just fine for level flight. Here are my settings:
H
MHi guys, I am using the Constellation Alpha on the Rhino, all works well BUT the Joystick "joystick hat "on the stick. Any hints how I can map this correctly (shows as hat 4 - always diagonal left up)
NI have an Alpha Prime and a Non-Prime(L), both work fine. Did you make sure to calibrate the x/y for the thumbstick?
MYes I did, also used recenter, but somehow it is not working. It only works down and left it seems, but at default its hows as it is pushed.
Iu se3ed the claibration and recenter in the config tool. Will try again tomorrow. But I was wondering if I have to "activate" it somewhere. The other 3 hats work fine.
Iu se3ed the claibration and recenter in the config tool. Will try again tomorrow. But I was wondering if I have to "activate" it somewhere. The other 3 hats work fine.
Nthe other 3 hats are actual buttons. The "button's" for the mini-stick are virtual buttons that get activated when the stick exceeds some (unknown to me) threshold. If you are calibrated correctly and seeing full excursion of the axis positions for Rx/Ry, IDK what else could be wrong.
MI'll take a screenshot tomorrow and share. Thanks for the help. If I remember correctly it was all maxed out all the time, but I will check after work.
AMaybe the calibration wasn’t stored on device?
CI'm using the Rhino, 200mm Extension, VKB MCG Pro. I seem to be having an issue that my X center position is always about -040 to -050 output value. I've added a balance spring, I've recalibrated a bunch of times and I'm still stuck. And the slight induced roll is kindof a pain. Any ideas?
CIs there a way to set the current position as the 0 position?
C
C
NI'd be curious, as a test, if you un-tick damper, friction and inertia (and apply), do you see proper centering?
HI would suggest to manually overwrite (don’t forget to apply and save) the calibration values to bring the center where it is supposed to be. I‘d recommend to either increase the lower value or decrease the higher value, depending on which side you want to go.
CMaybe better, but still -20s to -40s even with 40% balance spring
CSo just add 40 to my "X:min 572" value?
HProb half or double that. Just try. It‘s not dangerous if you keep the increments small.
COkay, that seems to be working pretty well
HProblem is that the system is elastic. Depending on the force you apply at each endpoint the mid point can be a bit off. Add an unsymmetrical weight distribution of the grip or an angled offset to this and you have some deviation.
NGotcha... if the deviation is always to one side, its probably not related.
Was asking since your damper and friction are higher than I normally see/use. The spring effect is very weak near center so it might not be strong enough (even with adaptive recentering) to overcome those.
In the new firmware/configurator you can actually set gain curves for those effects too.. you could reduce the friction/damper near center to make it easier for the spring effect to find center.
Was asking since your damper and friction are higher than I normally see/use. The spring effect is very weak near center so it might not be strong enough (even with adaptive recentering) to overcome those.
In the new firmware/configurator you can actually set gain curves for those effects too.. you could reduce the friction/damper near center to make it easier for the spring effect to find center.
HOr make the spring curve a bit steeper around the middle. That increases overall strength though, so you might wanna reduce spring gain a bit.
NYep.. that too. Was dangerous in 1.0.16 because it was easy to induce instability if you got very sharp around center. This is the spring gain map on my collective spring in 1.0.17 (for when collective force trim is active). Feels like a rock when the spring is active
HWell! 
I had a bit less in mind…..
I had a bit less in mind…..Njust sayin... the stability enhancements in 1.0.17 are legit
Mthats the thumb stick with no input.
Mthe WIN10 Tool for gamecontrollers also collects the same info. I am wondering if the thumbstick is maybe damaged ... ?
Nthats pretty strange. The axis numbers in the green box seem to agree with the hat position being triggered (both full up/left). Do they change when you mvoe the axis? What about the raw values in the red box?
MRaw Value on thumb X is:770 full left, 237 full right.
Raw Value on thumb Y is: 218 max down and 734 max up BUT diagonally up right is like 754.
Something is messed up ... push thumb is button 5 ,,,#
Raw Value on thumb Y is: 218 max down and 734 max up BUT diagonally up right is like 754.
Something is messed up ... push thumb is button 5 ,,,#
Rwill this also be more stable with the cyclic, to increase the strength of the center, where ever it is when using force trim?
MSolved after some tinkering: ok .. I reset all settings and also the win10 (reset to standard NOT calibrate) config. then calibrated in VPForce FFB COnfigurator and send to device and it now works -.....
YI just got my rhino, and it's great to feel the ffb. I was wondering if anyone has settings they like for MSFS and DCS helos (uh60, oh58, bell 407). The trim doesn't seem to really hold its position well and sometimes the aircraft will flip right away if I start with the aircraft running. I have been reading through the manual, but I'm not really sure if I have something on or off that I shouldn't.
HFor the trim to hold well (assuming you are talking about Helicopters), you need to play around with friction settings. For helicopters in general I would recommend to use very light spring (or none) and more friction and damping (and a bit of inertia) to give the stick the right „feeling“. And personally I use the hardware enabled trim function of the VP software rather than in-game force trim.
TBeen tweaking settings for a helicopter config myself. Using a both friction and damping, with a little spring. I've been playing with the DCS OH-58D Kiowa and having fun with it. Using its force trim seems to work fine. I'd like to understand why you recommend using the hardware enabled trim vs the in-game force trim - for spring centering or something else?