been running almost 2 years here with only cutting the 24v power, usb always connected and pc remain
been running almost 2 years here with only cutting the 24v power, usb always connected and pc remains powered up. no issues.
NMy issue was that for the first week I had it, I was just hitting the Big Red Button BRB from now on. and after a week FFB was just not working as it should. Realised the BRB was just cutting the power to the motors but leaving everything else fully powered. Unplugged for a minute and all went back to normal and have unplugged from power brick ever since. USB still connected to PC but I do shut it down at night. Been good ever since until recently and the F-5E in DCS has no trim effects anymore but all the other modules seem fine?
AI've managed to get my settings dialed in after a couple of test flights. 2 questions remain. How do I disconnect the standard spring effect from the spring dynamic effect? I would like to have no spring effect at all when standing still and as air speed increases have more and more spring like effect. Second question, how do I decrease the inertia effect time. Now it feels a bit sluggish. I would like to have the inertia kick immediately when stopping the stick from moving. Now there is a bit of a delay, when the stick is stopped until I feel the 'inertia kick/effect.
NI only have the FC F5, and while it has bindings for rudder trim, they don’t seem to do anything. IDK about the full fidelity versions.
The pedal trim feature in TelemFFB reacts to the physical movement of the control surface. If that doesn’t move with rudder trim, it won’t work.
The pedal trim feature in TelemFFB reacts to the physical movement of the control surface. If that doesn’t move with rudder trim, it won’t work.
NHI I can confirm that the F-5E trim both stick and Rudder used to work fully without issues, The Stick and Rudders would both move and react to trim inputs. But since ED updated DCS on the 24th of Dec I could not fly as they buggered something up for me! They seem to have fixed the issue I had with the latest update but now the F-5E cannot be trimmed out and is basically unflyable with the Rhino! All other modules that I have tried and I have most seem to be absolutely fine!
OHit the awacs up and start getting a soak before you taxi to help SA
NWell I don't know how I fixed it but ALL is well in F-5E Tiger II world!!
I reset the configurator to factory defaults and used the standard config file for the F-5E and the Trim is now working properly!
I reset the configurator to factory defaults and used the standard config file for the F-5E and the Trim is now working properly!
OIt was a good suggestion but having just tried it, it makes the game lose the whole stick. Going to give "autohotkey" a go
PHas anyone found a reliable way to get the cog covers to stick? Mine unfortunately keeps coming off. Tried a couple things so far but no luck
WHmm, did you try a foam double sided tape?
JThis is still a pain in the butt. Is there any help to get it back to remember it's last setting?
PBeen using a silicone one but I'll give foam a try
NI cut up some command strips. Never moved until I took them off.
LHey all, I got 1h40m into a DCS campaign mission yesterday when my Rhino suddenly disconnected in the middle of a Case III approach. The stick went limp and there were no inputs reaching the game. I pressed and reset the emergency stop and unplugged and reconnected the USB cable on the base and it reconnected, but there was no longer any FFB. I restarted TelemFFB and got the periodic effects back, but there were no spring forces. I managed to trap, but wondering if there's anything else I can do to recover from a disconnect and restore all forces in the future. I'm worried about this happening during a multiplayer squadron mission as those often run over 2 hours. Thanks!
TI have never had an issue but someone the other day said that they experienced “random FFB disconnects” similar to what you’re describing.
The issue and fix for this person was Vjoy or joystick gremlin virtual joystick? (One of those) was causing a dual input.
To fix the issue they just disabled “ FFB” check box in the virtual joystick or the Vjoy.
Maybe it was under the support channel so see if you can find it AND double check yourself (if your running any virtual joystick) that the “FFB” is unchecked.
That’s the only thing recently I’ve seen so maybe that’s a start for troubleshooting
The issue and fix for this person was Vjoy or joystick gremlin virtual joystick? (One of those) was causing a dual input.
To fix the issue they just disabled “ FFB” check box in the virtual joystick or the Vjoy.
Maybe it was under the support channel so see if you can find it AND double check yourself (if your running any virtual joystick) that the “FFB” is unchecked.
That’s the only thing recently I’ve seen so maybe that’s a start for troubleshooting
LThanks, I appreciate the response. I am using vJoy and Joystick Gremlin, but I just double checked and "Enable Effects" is already disabled in vJoy. I don't see any FFB related options in Joystick Gremlin. I will search the channel for the history though. Thanks again.
RI use vjoy for my pedals, but ffb effects are all disabled there. Two weeks ago I thought I found the solution, in disabling MSFS support in TelemFFB ... then one full week no ffb loss/disconnect. But this week it returned. What a nasty "bug".
OHello a question: if I set the spring to 100% in the ffb configurator, then the maximum stroke distance in y is only half as long. What am I doing wrong or how can I adjust this?
When I send spring off, it's 100% of the total length again
When I send spring off, it's 100% of the total length again
TCheck description of force comp settings. Down by the calibration values. It is shorter due to flex in the system.
JFor me it's a hid disconnect that gets DCS to stop sending FFB effects (spring). Only a DCS restart fixes that. In my case it is PointCTRL, which I painstakingly have to make sure not to reset while dcs is running.
OHardware trim in ffb or the trim in the applications? What is better?
FApplications. Only use the hardware trim as last resort imo.
E.g. the DCS Apache hates being used without its trim. Lol
E.g. the DCS Apache hates being used without its trim. Lol
DHi. My Rhino was working fine yesterday. Today when I turn on the Y axis does not work. I get the error code Faulty Encoder 12C
DPlease someone help
*PointCTRL can take down even my VR sometimes if it's USB connection goes in and out... 
*
*my USB port holder casing just broke... where could I get STL file to re-print it?
W@NOBAries here you go 
usb-flange.zip22.35KB
JGreat, I killed mine as well, glued it together for the time being. Price too pay for a removable setup, I guess.
*it's the cables... I have to rotate base for 180 and flip pitch axis... cause this way me or my son always nudge the cables acidentally...
KYou can also buy 90° angled adapters/cables.
JCould I request views for and against mounting the Rhino on a LONG Monstertech mount on an IKEA desk, with vibration settings turned down very low to avoid it shaking the desk to bits - thanks.
(NB: My personal interest is in the Rhinos realistic trimming and aerofoil pressure NOT sensations of gear or airbrake travelling etc.)
(NB: My personal interest is in the Rhinos realistic trimming and aerofoil pressure NOT sensations of gear or airbrake travelling etc.)
BYou can turn all effects down or even select which ones you want and customise each one, lets face it you can always buy a stronger desk 
F
Fhello, is this compatible with the VPC virpil sticks or do I have to order something more?
ANo, that’s all that’s necessary for a VPC grip
ANo adapters or such required
PEverthing was working fine.
I've open the case to tighten main gimbal screw and remount.
The stick center wasn't correct any longer. So tried a calibration.
But now I'm unable to have motor provide force any longer.
TM warthog buttons works.
I can see stick moves in windows game controller window.
I have try
Reset Firmware defaults.
Auto calibrate.
Master Gain Main 100%
Effects Springs 100%
Everything works, except there is no force, stick can move freely.
Motors have a green light. There is 24V on all pins with screws.
Firware update button cannot be activated even if connected,
may be because FW version is latest one.
I'm lost.
Except return the DIY kit 57BLF03x2 for check I have no idea what to do.
I've open the case to tighten main gimbal screw and remount.
The stick center wasn't correct any longer. So tried a calibration.
But now I'm unable to have motor provide force any longer.
TM warthog buttons works.
I can see stick moves in windows game controller window.
I have try
Reset Firmware defaults.
Auto calibrate.
Master Gain Main 100%
Effects Springs 100%
Everything works, except there is no force, stick can move freely.
Motors have a green light. There is 24V on all pins with screws.
Firware update button cannot be activated even if connected,
may be because FW version is latest one.
I'm lost.
Except return the DIY kit 57BLF03x2 for check I have no idea what to do.
WCan you post a screenshot of your configuration?
PGot your answer per email " your global spring gain is currently at 0% - hence no centering spring force will be available",will try this. Thanks
WDon't forget to "Store Config" so your configuration doesn't reset after device restart
PSolved. Thanks.
PI don't understand how to have a correct center.
1) I turn the pulley to have rawX,rawY belt not installed near to 2048 in Auto calibration
Than apply/store.
2) Mount centering tool. Mount the pulley.
Autocalibration. Apply/store.
And sitck is not center.
Do I have to unscrew the pulley to have stick center (which is impossible for my case,
I need to unmount the motors to have access to pulley tiny screws) at some time ?
With centering tool set as in picture 2, how store 'this is my center' ?
1) I turn the pulley to have rawX,rawY belt not installed near to 2048 in Auto calibration
Than apply/store.
2) Mount centering tool. Mount the pulley.
Autocalibration. Apply/store.
And sitck is not center.
Do I have to unscrew the pulley to have stick center (which is impossible for my case,
I need to unmount the motors to have access to pulley tiny screws) at some time ?
With centering tool set as in picture 2, how store 'this is my center' ?
P
WYou don't have to change anything more physically - your calibration is within 0-4096 bounds, which is good.
Do the auto calibration routine and save the settings.
Do the auto calibration routine and save the settings.
POk, thanks.
There is no 'store center'.
Center is computed from Xmin/max Ymin/max calibrated.
Correct ?
There is no 'store center'.
Center is computed from Xmin/max Ymin/max calibrated.
Correct ?
AYes, correct. You should be able to just press "auto calibrate", read what it says in the box and press OK, move the stick forward, back, left, right, and press the auto calibration button again to exit calibration mode. Then press "store settings" for it to take effect.
Btw, personally I don't see the need of the centering tool but maybe it's me not thinking it through (as long as you are within the one rotation of the motors, at least when connecting/powering on). I didn't use the centering tool when I assembled mine but maybe I'm lucky
Btw, personally I don't see the need of the centering tool but maybe it's me not thinking it through (as long as you are within the one rotation of the motors, at least when connecting/powering on). I didn't use the centering tool when I assembled mine but maybe I'm lucky
Nyour stick is sagging from center, most likely due to grip weight and extension offset (can't see what you've got attached in your photos). Also, your pot is assigned to master gain and set to %50, so you're only getting %50 of whatever spring effect strength you have started in the effects tab.
Spring is weakest at center. You should use the Balancing Procedure to counteract the sag caused by the grip. Once you have that satisfactorily configured, I recommend using the "adaptive recentering" feature in the effects tab spring settings.
Spring is weakest at center. You should use the Balancing Procedure to counteract the sag caused by the grip. Once you have that satisfactorily configured, I recommend using the "adaptive recentering" feature in the effects tab spring settings.
BHi guys, does anyone has the 3D print model of the threaded insert to attach the grip when I take it out from the Rhino? I need to be taking it out frequently as I have a flight/racing sim setup and would like to have a nice place to keep the grip near the rig once I take it out instead of the floor
BThank you!
