so you are fine with the MCGU + 200mm extension or do you think the MCGU is too heavy when paired wi
so you are fine with the MCGU + 200mm extension or do you think the MCGU is too heavy when paired with the 200mm extension?
Pwell the thing is I mostly fly modern jets & helicopters with the mcgu & have the stick feeling lighter anyway, (at least for the FBW eg. FC3 F-15c). I'm pretty sure ppl here are using the TM F-18 grip with extensions on the Rhino & that grip is even heavier. The mcgu is a really good stick for heli's & modern aircraft, I mean really it's still good for warbirds (the brake lever eg.) or GA too & it has so many buttons, hats etc. & options to swap hats for axis & in the software you can still have the axis mini sticks act both ways. Also being able to still use the vkb software is a bonus. If you fly modern incl. FBW & warbirds/GA too, then maybe consider getting a second grip like the kg12.
PI have thought about getting the mcgu grip shell 3d printed or resign, something strong & lightweight. I'm not sure about the weight difference but check out the virpil's CM2 it's a modern Russian style grip.
TThanks for the feedback! I fly mostly helis and Warbids. I use for heli a Virpil Alpha-R as cycliq and for fixed wings/ warbirds a MCGU (that replaced a VKG SCG Space Combat). For me the MCGU is by far the best stick I had so far in terms of feel (a little bit to large however for my smaller hands). Unfortunately it is already too heavy with a 200mm extension to be used as a cyliq with the GF MK.III. The Virpil Alpha-R is also made of metal but it really doesn‘t feel as nice as the MCGU. At least to me.
I am waiting for my Rhino and I hope that I will be able to use my MCGU. Worst case I will use my Virpil Alpha-R.
I am waiting for my Rhino and I hope that I will be able to use my MCGU. Worst case I will use my Virpil Alpha-R.
POh you'll deff be able to use your mcgu, I do & it's fine, 9Nm is still a decent amount of torque, one of the Logitech steering wheels can have as little as 3Nm of peak torque, even the Fanatec CLS with the boost kit only has 8Nm. Just get the kg12 for warbirds m8, it's got all the buttons you need for a warbird really. Also I've considered adding a left SCG (from the EVO I'm using atm for collective) to the GF III base & add a small dampener to it & mount it to be used as a collective, until I get a proper one.
TI use the Virpil collective, it is good but honestly it could be better as like many other people I did the Nyogel mod and I added a dampener. I am sure the V2 will be better.
ANot his first rodeo. He did basically the same thing on the ED forums a couple years before the Discord. A shame that he couldn't get his products to market, but trying to do everything all at once is not easy.
NUpdated my design to make building it a bit more achievable.. will use a on online laser cutting and bending service to have the pieces made. Will be using some adjustable furniture legs I found as the feet for the mounting plate.. Probably won't have it made with the logo cutout, but it looks cool in the rendering 
WYup, would love to see an X8 pro motor option!
V:package: 
RHINO #0086 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0086 Has Shipped!NTemporary redneck mount… works pretty well so far.
KI don't know man, that looks pretty solid to me. I'd have a hard time paying a bunch of money to make that only slightly better.
NHaha. Yeah, it is pretty solid. Some black spray paint would go a long way in making it look less red-neck-ish.
At least it gives me some time to decide if I want to spend the $120 to have pieces made (plus an extra $60-80 if I want them powder coated or anodized).
At least it gives me some time to decide if I want to spend the $120 to have pieces made (plus an extra $60-80 if I want them powder coated or anodized).
LStowing it might get a bit annoying because when unpowered, the stick will fall.
LNothing redneck about the looks, just give it a lick of paint.
LTest with max torque 
ofc
ofc
MMate just get a whole plywood board and bolt that to the pedals and bolt the stick to that. Then use the weight of your chair to keep it stable
MYou can thank me later, you'll get far more use out of your rudder when you know you can kick it without it skidding
MOr just use it for little 5mm movements
NWas that for me? I can kick my pedals all day long. Micro suction “tape” on each of the 4 feet keep it extremely secure, yet I can peel it up and move it if needed. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M7FC1K8. Also locking roller blade style wheels on my chair.
NI work and play from the same desk so it all needs to be movable.
V:package: 
RHINO #0087 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0087 Has Shipped!V:package: RHINO #0089 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0089 Has Shipped!V:package: 
RHINO #0090 Has Shipped!
RHINO #0090 Has Shipped!
D
WPosted some details in showcase channel https://discord.com/channels/965234441511383080/972180323787997255/1103681326546161724
JI'm very excited for the potential that has. Especially looking forward to when Walmis is able to snag a set himself.
KDoes anyone know of another name for a "cable drive"? I'm doing a knockoff of the Rhino and have been modeling up a drive using steel wire or kevlar thread. It's a technique I learned from an old 3d printer I used to own: http://bootsindustries.com/cable-drive-system-rostock-3d-printer-bi/
KHowever, searching online I see very little talk about cable drives... I'm thinking there must be another name for it that I'm missing. ~to me~ it seems very well suited to a FFB stick and I don't have to wait for shipping from China for a belt.
Ki think I can get fairly high gear ratios because the motor end pulley can be very close to the shaft size.
KI'm building two cable drive gear sets right now. One with steel wire one with kevlar wire, and already have the HTD gears done.... just waiting on the belts to arrive. I plan to test them all, but am just looking for any advice from others who have used this method.
WUsing the large 86blf04 motors I find they don’t have much torque around centre. I don’t have play in my system as the smallest movement registers in the VPForce software. I’ve tried increasing the spring curve around centre and it helps a little. Is there any way to improve this further? Or is it inherent in these motors ?
WYou should be able to tune this with the spring curve tool
JThe reason why you might not find much information on that is that the smaller the radius, the higher the force in the cable, which is theoretically good, as you would need only a relatively small pulley on the gimbal for the same final torque.
...but also, the higher the force in the cable, the higher the force the bearings need to hold. If you increase this force too high, the bearings might fail fairly quickly.
And I am not too keen on how easy it is to replace the bearings inside the motor.
The pre-tension you need in a cable drive is also higher than in a toothed pulley drive.
...but also, the higher the force in the cable, the higher the force the bearings need to hold. If you increase this force too high, the bearings might fail fairly quickly.
And I am not too keen on how easy it is to replace the bearings inside the motor.
The pre-tension you need in a cable drive is also higher than in a toothed pulley drive.
MI just found that issue too with XpForce. Where the hell do we get it from? 
(whilst we wait for the better solution from Walmis for MSFS that is)
I see on another forum that the author says it's a false positive. Did you find it was ok?
(whilst we wait for the better solution from Walmis for MSFS that is)I see on another forum that the author says it's a false positive. Did you find it was ok?
STension on the cable is much less than what a belt would need. it's just enough to keep it in the rollers. Also, the side loading on the motor shaft is almost nothing- since the cable pulls are 180 degrees apart. A belt has to be pulled tight in one direction to keep the teeth from skipping. Also if you're looking for a better name than 'cable drives', look for 'flight control cables'
FNot technically related to the RHINO, but I saw you built your own VKB adapter. Does anyone know if the plastic piece with the contact pads for the stick had to be custom built or is it an off the shelf component from somewhere?
FFor illustration, and you can probably see why I'm looking for leads on a new one.
TDoes anybody know of a shop that sell HTD5 pulleys and ships with DHL?
I got my pulleys today, but the chinese Ebay store managed to send one wrong pulley and one was missing. The two motor pulleys and the belt was correct though…
I got my pulleys today, but the chinese Ebay store managed to send one wrong pulley and one was missing. The two motor pulleys and the belt was correct though…
JThe problem of the motor bearing load does however exist when one is trying to use a cable instead of a pulley in a normal pulley drive configuration like we see on the Rhino, which is what the OP described as far as I can tell.
I admit that indeed the pretension might be a non-issue. And as long as you just want to use the cable as a belt replacement and not to make the drive put out 3 times the torque, you should probably be good regardless.
I admit that indeed the pretension might be a non-issue. And as long as you just want to use the cable as a belt replacement and not to make the drive put out 3 times the torque, you should probably be good regardless.
TI’m 3D printing pulleys for mine. You could look at that route.
TYes, I may. But I just wanted to see if anyone knew of a good online shop.
TI’ll be in the same need when it comes time for belts, can’t 3D print those.
TWhat software do you use to design your pulleys with? @theamazingreat
TI haven’t designed any yet, just starting with the existing 70t in the FFB base files floating around here/discord. I did make some changes in fusion 360 to the hub to fit my use but still leaving it at 70t diameter.
TI also modified the hub of the 14t to press fit onto the profile of the 86 series motor shaft to avoid using grub screws.
MI always called it 'shaft winding' but that's probably not the real term either
TNext step is working out belts and tensioning methods. Will either be a idler pulley or possibly a clamping system built into the 70t pulley.
SYep and if you do multiple wraps of the cable around the motor pulley (enough to unwind its travel) and the cable is secured to it, it will be a lot less
JYou are only referring to the second part about the pre tension, correct?
MThe shaft winding technique req a cross-hole in the drive shaft, and 3-4 full wrapps of cable either side of the hole before going to the final pully. The advantage of this type of system is it allows extremely small drive 'gear', allowing high ratios in compact form factor. Also eliminates the need for matching belts/pulleys. You just need to figure out a way to tension the cable in situ, which there are several ways to accomplish.
Kevlar rope is ideal for this because it has almost zero stretch where steel cable is rellatively springy. Kevlar stretch like 1-2% @ 50% break strength, steel is like 20% iirc.
Here's an example of shaft winding, using steel cable in this case.
Kevlar rope is ideal for this because it has almost zero stretch where steel cable is rellatively springy. Kevlar stretch like 1-2% @ 50% break strength, steel is like 20% iirc.
Here's an example of shaft winding, using steel cable in this case.
