Looks OK to me, PM Walmis and ask him to cast his eye over it. It's always tense hitting the power f
Looks OK to me, PM Walmis and ask him to cast his eye over it. It's always tense hitting the power for the first time.
THow is this coming along @walmis ?
NYes, I did. It's reverting back to the full movement and not the restricted I have with the throw limiter.
W@Niklas [NiccoSWE] can you post a screenshot of the values after calibration?
MHallo, any idea when the aluminum grip adapter will be available (it is on back order at the moment).
WNext batch should arrive next week
MI turned it on and didn’t die so that was nice
MIdk why but it didn’t come up with a raw value for the motor so I guess I have some reading to do tomorrow but it’s too late now
MAh don’t worry, I had to turn the y axis off
MNow I can go to sleep easy
DI have had my Rhino for a few weeks. It has always felt very weak , so today I have fiddled with every setting that I can tweak and still no joy.....I did open the debug page and there is all of these line items which state: FFB_RemoveEffect (9) and (15) and (16).....So I have probably screwed something up. Can anyone help get me on the right track again?
Cyou don't happen to have the potentiometer knob on the base turned way down do you?
TThere should be a default profile to load in the configs directory of the configurator. Also you can take a look at the profile sharing thread in the knowledge base to see how others have set theirs up.
WIf by weak you mean you want it more stiff at the center, you can tune the spring mapping:
🧰support
Also I recommend importing the default Rhino settings profile from
🧰support
Also I recommend importing the default Rhino settings profile from
configs/RHINO-defaults.vpconf@Chuff nope the knob is fully clockwise
D@walmis no, it feels no more stronger than my virpil at present. There is definitely something wrong or mis configured on my part
Cwhat module are you flying?
Cand are you running telemffb while in game?
DP51 and Huey mostly
DTelemffb is running
Cnot sure what the state of huey ffb support is, but the p51 has great ffb support and can get very heavy at times on the controls
DIf I could get a P51 profile to download, maybe it would fix what ever is out of whack.
Cdoes telemffb appear to working? in other words, when you load into the module in dcs you can see what module you're in in telemffb, and it's reporting what effects it's triggering?
DYes. Look at the pics I uploaded and see if you can spot something if you would,please
Cthose are from the configurator. I'm talking about telemffb. different application
DThe lower left pic is from the teleffb app
Cwhat does telem show if you open the settings tab?
DYou know, I just noticed something else, if you click on the upper right pic and look at the lower right hand corner, there seems to be motor errors….that can’t be good
CYeah, I'm out of ideas for you. sorry, man. Hopefully @walmis sees your last message about the motor errors.
DI am rebooting my computer now to see if that resets anything. Do you have a P51 profile that you would share?
CI pretty much run it at default. just tweaked the settings to my liking in telemffb. So I turn things like runway rumble way down. Other than that I didn't do a lot of tweaking. found it to be pretty good for me out of the box
DThanks for,your help!
Csorry my help wasn't more helpful. lol
NFWIW, TelemFFB has naught to do with stick forces in DCS. That’s all the native FFB from the sim.
WRT the motor error, did you try the reset motor button on the debug tab?
WRT the motor error, did you try the reset motor button on the debug tab?
BI’m not getting special effects on DCS P-51. The stick itself is working great, flight control wise, the issue is that I’m not getting anything else - stall buffeting, firing guns, etc. Thanks in advance!
BWhat do we do with the Rhino at the end of the day when we’re done using it? Turn off the motors with the red button? Unplug the power supply?
D@Number481 I rebooted computer, cycled the power on the rhino, imported the default config. Stick seems to work better now.
BMore notes to my issue above. The telemetry software seems to be working correctly. When I hold down the trigger, the gun firing effect is listed under ‘Active effects for stick’, but you don’t feel anything in the stick.
NCan you post screenshots of both the effects and settings tab in configurator? The effects dab you did post can’t be accurate since it shows everything disabled.
N
BAh, maybe that’s my issue. I thought you normally have all the effects turned off and just let DCS do everything. I thought the effects were for flight sims that didn’t support FFB. What effects are normally turned on? Also, is stick shake at the stall a built-in DCS effect or is it done with telemetry?
NA simplified description of how it works is:
- Effects tab sets the limitations for the sliders on the settings tab
- Settings tab sliders set the limitations on what a game can command via DirectX FFB
Together they sort of define the maximum capabilities and characteristics of the device.
Example: A game will just say "set spring to %50". It has no idea what is set in configurator. The resulting force you feel will be the spring settings in
I recommend importing and starting with the default rhino configurator profile (in the configs directory in your configurator install).
WRT stick shake. Depends on the module. Some have stall buffeting built-in. However, that is the only "haptic" type effect that is part of the native FFB from DCS.
- Effects tab sets the limitations for the sliders on the settings tab
- Settings tab sliders set the limitations on what a game can command via DirectX FFB
Together they sort of define the maximum capabilities and characteristics of the device.
Example: A game will just say "set spring to %50". It has no idea what is set in configurator. The resulting force you feel will be the spring settings in
Effects TabSettings TabI recommend importing and starting with the default rhino configurator profile (in the configs directory in your configurator install).
WRT stick shake. Depends on the module. Some have stall buffeting built-in. However, that is the only "haptic" type effect that is part of the native FFB from DCS.
TI’m busy soaking up as much of this as I can… got a shipping notification on my kit so now I gotta seriously study this software.
Thanks to you and everyone out here “solving” these issues I honestly hope when it comes to my time I can use some of what I’ve picked up to help myself out of a jam.
Little tips like how when it’s set to unlimited Ammo the counter doesn’t move so you don’t get FFB gunfire effect.
Stuff like that seems like nothing but it’s sort of a big deal when troubleshooting so I appreciate all the tips and tricks you guys post.
Thanks to you and everyone out here “solving” these issues I honestly hope when it comes to my time I can use some of what I’ve picked up to help myself out of a jam.
Little tips like how when it’s set to unlimited Ammo the counter doesn’t move so you don’t get FFB gunfire effect.
Stuff like that seems like nothing but it’s sort of a big deal when troubleshooting so I appreciate all the tips and tricks you guys post.
BOk, everything working now. A Windows reboot has everything working. Turns out it works just fine even with all Effects turned off.
CPower plug has started to fall out when I have lots of feedback. And ideas how how to keep it in?
NI'm using a workaroud by defining a deasspace in the Tune Axis section in DCS.
WIn your setup, encoder position wraps around, so it can be undefined at startup.
I suggest you follow the instruction about initial belt position/calibration:
I suggest you follow the instruction about initial belt position/calibration:
TDIY or production unit?
If DIY you can take it apart and add the “Twist lock” connector.
Here is the Male 5.5 x 2.1 (same size as the Rhino plug) with “Twist lock”. Get the female and swap them out.
IF you are using a production unit ask @walmis because opening or swapping parts probably void any warranty?
So the answer is: “It depends”
But yep that’s the part you need and that’s why they lock in place
Hope that helps
If DIY you can take it apart and add the “Twist lock” connector.
Here is the Male 5.5 x 2.1 (same size as the Rhino plug) with “Twist lock”. Get the female and swap them out.
IF you are using a production unit ask @walmis because opening or swapping parts probably void any warranty?
So the answer is: “It depends”
But yep that’s the part you need and that’s why they lock in place
Hope that helps
T(You need the Male and Female btw but I assume you know I just wanted to clarify)